Out and About in Romania

By Friedrich Niemann

I love to travel in Romania and explore the country as much as I can. When doing so, I try to avoid the big and commercial hotels – which I know too well for obvious reasons – but also places without a soul and sense of place. Throughout the years I have discovered several locations, which truly have this sense of place and are not necessarily posh and so perceptibly pseudo-luxurious, much better – they are just perfect in what and where they are. If I would play it smart, I obviously kept those places to myself, as otherwise I would be running the risk that soon these hidden secrets won’t be secrets anymore and overrun by the curious traveler. However, that would neither do the locations justice nor the sophisticated traveler’s thirst for proper accommodation. Hence, below please find my four favorite spots in Romania.

No, it is no coincidence that all of these locations are in Transylvania!

I have been taking that deprived gravel road up to the hill of Balaban already for years, every time when I was in dire need of a tranquil place to rest and enjoy the stunning beauty of the Carpathian’s Southern Range. The ‘Inn on Balaban’ is uniquely located while it sits on a hill high above the village of Simon, next to Bran in Brasov County. Once up here the visitor can enjoy 360 degree views of the Carpathian Mountains; the Piatra Craiului to the west and the Bucegi mountains to the east, the famous Rucar – Bran corridor stretches to the South – scenic views as many and as lasting as you wish.

Casa Balaban is a purpose-built house that resembles a traditional Transylvanian farmhouse as exhibited in Sibiu’s village museum. That is where the owner of the house picked up the idea a few years ago, realized his dream and opened the Inn in 2006. It really puts you back in time in rural Romania. There is a large living room on the ground floor, with a fire place, comfy sofas, a library about Transylvania and its history and lots of antique and rural Romanian furniture. The six bedrooms on the ground – and the first floor are furnished with antiques or rebuilt traditional Romanian peasant furniture. The beds and their linen are so horrendously comfortable that you don’t want to get up in the morning anymore. Bathrooms have floor heating and tiny little windows allow you to enjoy those spectacular views even in the most private moments. As there is no other place for dinner in the area, the inn usually offers half board, which comprises a country style three-course dinner (the mamaliguta is outstanding), accompanied by a decent selection of fine Romanian wines. In the morning a very rich and local breakfast is served in the dining room.

Over the last years they have also added two more buildings, one being a beautifully restored old farm house from Simon and a second building, following the same architecture as the first, accommodating spacious meeting facilities as well as another two bedrooms.

To get there, while coming from Brasov, you need to pass through the village of Bran, about 1 km after passing Bran castle take a left following the signs for Simon. In Simon turn left at the church and follow the signs and the gravel road for approximately 4 km. Once there and no matter the weather, you don’t want to leave. And in winter, when the road is inaccessible by car, they come and pick you up with a sledge in Simon – being the truly romantic alternative. The Inn at Balaban is the perfect retreat for a weekend or a short vacation for those who enjoy nature, quietness, hiking and a sense of place. What I enjoyed most, apart from the stunning nature: there are no telephones or TV’s in the house – ok, they do have WiFi.

More about the inn on Balaban, here.

Maramures, the heart and soul of rural Romania
By Radu Fifea

Romania is not only Bucharest, the little Paris of South Eastern Europe. If you want to avoid the traffic jam of the crowded capital and to find yourself in the middle of wild nature then take a train – or an airplane if you do not want to drive 600 km from Bucharest to Baia Mare, the capital of Maramures county, near the Hungarian and Ukrainian border.
Do you want to stay one night in the middle of the forest, amongst wild animals, lighting a real fire, experiencing true, virgin nature?

Maramures is considered by many to be the heart and soul of rural Romania. With its picturesque countryside of small villages, rolling hills, pastures, and meadows full of wildflowers, Maramures epitomises all that the rural lifestyle encompasses. Visitors to Maramures have a unique opportunity to step back in time and bear witness to simpler times and simpler lives.
Maramures is a small and unique location in the geographical heartland of Europe that has carefully and distinctively preserved the culture, traditions and lifestyle of a mediaeval peasant past. The region stands as a testament to the traditional; to a romantic era of simplicity, pride and moral values that many of us can only now read about or hear from our grandparents.

Little has changed in the centuries gone by. Families remain in the same villages as their ancestors.
Villagers’ homes are still fronted with traditional giant, ornately-carved wooden gates, and ear-smoking, 100-proof palinca (plum brandy) stills percolate in the garden, tended by a rosy-cheeked patriarch. Discovering this part of the world is a time-travel adventure, often stunning Western visitors.

Traditional hand-woven clothing continues to be made. The church continues to be the soul of the village. Neighbours know one another and continue to lend a helping hand.
Life in Maramures is like a mystery.  Visitors to Maramures drive through mountain passes and
descend into the valleys of life where the mystery of rural traditions unfolds before the visitor as a living museum, that is at once within reach yet simultaneously beyond the grasp of the whimsical traveller.

The last peasant culture in Europe is thriving here, with hand-built ancient wooden churches, traditional music, colourful costumes and festivals. The region was effectively cut off from Transylvania by a fortress of mountains and has remained largely untouched by the 20th century (and the 19th century, and the 18th century). Medieval Maramures exists in the Mara and Izei Valleys.
Eight of the churches in the region – in the villages of Barsana, Budesti, Desesti, Ieud, Plopis, Poienile Izei, Rogoz and Surdesti – are on Unesco’s list of World Heritage sites.

Landscape

Morphologically varied, the land of Maramures ranges from 200 to 2,300 metres above sea level. There are several land regions in Maramures.
It is in Maramures, where the Eastern Carpathians – the 300 km long natural divide between Moldavia and Transylvania – reach their highest altitude with Mount Pietrosu (2,303 m) in Rodna Mountains.

The rainy climate feeds a dense river system that totals 3,000 km. Two river systems – the Tisa and the Somes – drain the country. The Tisa drains the rivers that flow down the surrounding mountains and across the Maramures basin: Viseu, Ruscova and Iza with their tributaries, such as the Mara and Cosau rivers. The Somes drains the rivers in the south-eastern part of the country: the Salaj river and Lapus with its main tributaries Cavnic and Sasar.
Various natural lakes dot the landscape. The alpine lakes of Iezer and Buhaescu are of glacial origin. The beautiful Albastru Lake by Baia Sprie was formed when a mine pit caved in. A similar phenomenon – the collapse of a salt mine – gave birth to the lakes at Ocna Sugatag.

Monasteries

Perhaps you are looking for long sought-after spiritual peace. You can find it in the monasteries in Maramures.  You have seen high buildings like the Statue of Liberty and La Tour Eiffel, but you have not seen the highest wooden buildings in the world. Then come and see them.

Those interested in religious life will discover here more than mere monuments. Certainly, Maramures is a county made up of dozens of wood churches, which do not stay locked as architecture monuments, but remain open to the parishioners that fill them every Sunday. Initially modelled on the peasant farmhouse, the tiny wooden churches of Maramures impress trough their harmonious architecture and monumental outlook.
Inside, the icons and paintings – laid out according to rules specific to the rites of the Eastern Church – cover the iconostasis, a partition that separates the sacristy from the nave.

Merry Cemetery
Have you ever met people laughing and kidding about death? If you have not, then a visit to the Merry Cemetery is a must, the second funeral monument in the world.
In Sapanta, the traveller receives one of the most beautiful lessons of life from the people here. Their ancestors considered death as a beginning, and not the end and this faith is still present today.
“The happy cemetery” here is proof of this faith. People welcome death more with joy, rather than sorrow which is why the inscriptions of the dead person’s life  contain satirical verses, describing the main events of their life.
The life philosophy of the Maramures area is “to laugh about sorrow”. Here, the traveller can also find the fine “carpets of Sapanta”. The threads are spun with a big spindle, and then woven manually on a loam.

Wildlife

The enthusiasts of hunting and fishing will not fail to discover Maramures’ profusion of game and fish. Hunters may go on deer, chamois, wild boar, deer, hare, black grouse, woodcock and pheasant hunts or shoots. The trophies captured can be preserved by the local Forest Authority. Anglers may choose among fishing in either mountains or plain watercourses as well as in ponds. Carp, pike and sander may be captured against a day fee in the dam lake of Firiza and the ponds of Remetea Chioarului and Doua Veverite – Lapusel. According to regulations, the trout may be captured in the Vaser valley only between the 1st of May and the 15th of September.

Sports and traveling by Mocanita

At Mogosa, the height difference of about 400 metres, the air currents and a ski lift provide ideal conditions for hang-gliding and paragliding.
In the rainy season, when the water level is high enough, Lapus Gorges, with its small rapid lining from Razoare to Remecioara, is a strong temptation for canoers and rafters. Similar attempts of rafting were made along the Vaser valley. Here, the presence of the narrow-gauge train may help you to carry the equipment.At Firiza lake there is a sport canoeing club which has arranged a buoyed route.

When travelling on the Mocanita, a narrow-gauge steam train, the only means of transportation in the valley, one should keep in mind that this is like a journey back in time: after leaving Vişeu station there is no cell phone signal, and any contact with modern times is lost.
The access point to Vaser Valley is the town of Viseu de Sus. The railway runs along Vaser River and is one of the last remaining steam rails still in active use in Europe, and the only one in Romania still used for hauling logs down from the mountains. Built after the First World War for the express task of transporting wood, it is still – surprisingly – used for its original purpose.

Nowadays, in spite of its old age, the steam locomotives have been given one more task: that of transporting tourists. Here is one of the few places where one can ride along in a wagon pulled by steam power, every year the old Mocanita attracts thousands of tourists from all over the world, and offers them unforgettable railway trips.
Travellers can go by train all the way up to the end of the valley and back, enjoying the beauty  of the surrounding countryside. It is also possible to stop on the way, get off at one of the several halts – “halte” – and start a hiking trip to the mountains.
Very early in the morning the Mocanita is made ready for the day’s trip. Both the tourist wagons and the forestry wagons are attached to the steam locomotive, wood and water provisions are loaded – they are the fuel of the steam engine – and the mechanic starts the engine. After some time, off the train goes with a long whistle, puffing all along the way.
Following the cascading river, the train first passes among the houses of Vişeu de Sus. Then, after about seven kilometers, the tracks start to go deep into the wild forest, passing through the steep cliffs of the gorge, and penetrating the mountains through dark tunnels.
The silence of nature is broken not only by the tumultuous river which rushes by and the puffs and hisses of the train, but from time to time also by the sharp whistles of the locomotive.

How to get to Maramures

By plane: Baia Mare’s fastest connection with Bucharest is by plane. The airport is located 8 km outside the city. Tarom’s (national airline company) flights to Baia Mare airport has the following schedule: Sunday, Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday: departure from Bucharest/Otopeni at 21:05; landing on Baia Mare airport at 22:20, Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday, Friday: departure from Baia Mare at 06:05; landing at Bucharest/Otopeni at 07:20. You can find the flights schedule at www.tarom.ro.
Tourists arriving from Bucharest or Budapest should know that they may also fly to Satu Mare (located 70 km far from Baia Mare) or Cluj-Napoca (150 km distance from Baia Mare).

By train: There are four trains daily from Cluj to Baia Mare, three trains from Bucharest and one train from Timisoara.  To Sighetu Marmatiei there are two direct trains from Cluj, one from Bucharest and one from Timisoara. Check timetables on www.infofer.ro.
There is also a cross-border train from Hungary to Satu Mare, which has some carriages coming directly from Budapest.

By bus: There are buses to Baia Mare from cities in Spain, France, Switzerland, the Czech Republic and Hungary as well as from major cities in Romania. Check for timetables www.autogari.ro.

By car:  There are around 600 km from Bucharest to Baia Mare, capital of Maramures, but you can rent a car from Cluj, Baia Mare or Satu Mare to be used to visit the area.

Get around: Highlights

The wooden churches protected by UNESCO (Poienile Izei, Ieud-Deal, Budesti-Josani, Desesti and Barsana-Jbar). The tallest wooden church in the world (78 m high, erected at Sapanta, between 1995-2003).

Pietrosu Rodnei Natural Reserve, UNESCO listed since 1979, established in 1932, part of the “Rodna Mountains National Park”, protecting edelweiss, gentians, marmots, chamois, etc.
Maramures Mountains Natural Park, the largest and wildest in Romania, covering 1480 sq km, protecting 1260 plant species, bears, wolves, lynxes, etc.
Breb Village adopted by the HMS Prince of Wales (he bought three old wooden houses there).
Sarbi Village, group of water powered machines (watermills, thresher, alcohol distilleries, whirlpools).

Budesti Village, the best-preserved traditional Maramures settlement.

by Radu Fifea

Your adventure in the area should not end with Maramures.  Travelling east along the Ukrainian border, crossing the Carpathians through Prislop Pass at 1,416 metres altitude, we reach the rolling hills of Northern Moldova, Bucovina, home to one of the world’s greatest art treasures -  its painted Monasteries, part of UNESCO’s World Heritage, for their rarity and beauty.
There is indeed no other place in the world like Bucovina, where a fascinating collection of Orthodox monasteries with their exterior mural paintings are to be seen.

Built in the 15th and 16th centuries and featuring colourful exterior frescoes depicting dramatic religious scenes, these richly-decorated houses of worships are unique in the world.
Bucovina is among the most attractive and frequented tourist area on Romania’s map. It is not by chance that this area, today famous worldwide, was honored by the International Federation of Tourism Journalists and Writers with the international “Pomme d’Or” prize in 1975, and the ancient architectural monuments with internal and external frescoes were appointed by UNESCO, and admitted to the list of universal art monuments.

Bucovina is worth visiting not only for its wealth of religious art and the beautiful monasteries, but also for the natural beauty and simplicity of the region. It is a region with clean, unspoiled nature. It has a unique landscape: thick forests and imposing peaks, branching off from the Carpathians, which allow a wonderful panorama of valleys, with houses scattered here and there, with large gardens and farmyards inviting one to lie down by the haystacks and look up at the blue sky, with its marvellous hues.

The countryside is scattered with picturesque villages and rural scenery as local folk go about their daily business; horse-drawn carts dominate the lanes, driven by people wrapped up against the cold, outdoor wells and piles of chopped wood adorn the yards, and traditional farmers’ markets bustle with activity. These are some of the scenes the traveller will encounter in this fascinating region of Romania, a stark contrast to the frenetic pace and way of life shaped by the modern face of city living.

Bucovina’s Painted Monasteries – Why You Should See Them

The Bucovina Region of northern Romania is known for its Painted Monasteries. These beautiful structures, averaging between 4 and 5 centuries old, are decorated inside and out with richly coloured frescoes as old as the buildings themselves. They are deemed significant enough to be protected by UNESCO, and they also give visitors an excuse to explore the Eastern Carpathian Mountains, rural villages of the region, and other, non-painted churches.

Bucovina’s Painted Monasteries – How To See Them:
Many travellers will find it most convenient to book a guided tour of the Painted Monasteries, which can be done from Suceava or Gura Humorlui. Public transportation may get you to a couple of the Painted Monasteries, but train and buses only go so far and may not make regular stops. It is also possible to hire a taxi driver to take you to the monasteries by car. If you choose to rent a car on your own, make sure you have a well-marked map and plan to stay in one of the larger towns overnight so that you are not rushed.

Bucovina’s Painted Monasteries – Arbore:
Arbore, though not really a monastery, is nonetheless painted in a similar manner as the four authentic Painted Monasteries. It is located in the village of Arbore, and is difficult to get to by public transportation, but is located very near to Suceava. Getting a taxi ride to and from this church should
not be expensive if you want to include Arbore on your own tour of the Painted Monasteries.

Bucovina’s Painted Monasteries – Humor Monastery:
Humor Painted Monastery is located in the vicinity of Gura Humorlui, and can be reached on foot from this town. Gura Humorui is a good place to base yourself if you plan on seeing other monasteries in Bucovina. You can get to Gura Humorlui by train and  bus from either Suceava to the east, or Campulung to the west.

Bucovina’s Painted Monasteries – Voronet Monastery:
Voronet Monastery can also be reached on foot from Gura Humorlui. This Painted Monastery is probably the most famous of the four Painted Monasteries – the particular blue special to the monasteries is widely called “Voronet blue.” In addition, the frescoed walls of Voronet are extremely detailed, depicting the Last Judgment and other religious scenes.

Bucovina’s Painted Monasteries – Moldovita Monastery:
Getting to Moldovita Monastery and the village of Vatra Moldovitei can be confusing for someone not familiar with local public transportation or the area. If you choose to use bus or train, make sure to make note of their schedules and the stops needed.
Moldovita Monastery’s frescoes also depict the Last Judgment and other scenes besides illustrating the monastery’s founder, Petru Rares.

Bucovina’s Painted Monasteries – Sucevita Monastery:
Sucevita is one of the best examples of Painted Monasteries in Bucovina. It contains a museum with antique tapestries on display, and, of course, intricately detailed frescoes.
If you decide to use public transportation to see Sucevita Monastery, plan on staying overnight in Sucevita. A bus runs from from Campulung, but not very often.

Bucovina – Other Monasteries and Churches:
On your tour through Bucovina, you will see other medieval churches and monasteries, and you may want to make special effort to see those not located on the way to any of the Painted Monasteries. Among some of the most interesting monasteries and churches are Dragomira Monastery, Putna Monastery, the church at Solca, and Suceava’s many historic churches.

Your tour should not finish in Bucovina. Let us see what Moldavia has to offer.

Moldavia rivals Transylvania when it comes to rich folklore, natural beauty and astonishing history. Over the past 500 years, history, culture and religious life have molded Iasi, the cultural capital of Moldavia. Iasi boasts an impressive number of Orthodox churches, representing the nucleus of the city, around which the city has developed over the centuries.

One of the most famous monuments in the city is the stunning Church of the Three Hierarchs, built in 1639. Another major landmark in Iasi is the neo-gothic Palace of Culture, built between 1900-1926, currently housing the Ethnographic Museum, the Art Museum, and the Moldavian History Museum.

The old capital of Moldavia, between 1375 – 1565, Suceava may be the best starting point for a trip to the monasteries.  It has some noteworthy attractions of its own, such as the remains of the Fortress of Suceava built in 1388. Today, visitors can tour the remains of the impressive fortifications and take in a great view of the city. Other sights in Suceava include St. George’s Church (UNESCO World Heritage Site), Mirauti Church, Zamca Monastery and a number of museums dedicated to woodcraft, ethnography, history and folk art. The Bucovina History Museum displays medieval armour, coins, tools and ancient documents. Its Throne Hall is a re-creation of Stephen the Great’s court with furniture, weapons and costumes.

A visit would not be complete without some stunning nature walks through Ceahlau National Park, Romania’s Olympus – the sacred mountain of the Dacians, the forefathers of the Romanian people. Make sure you bring binoculars as some 90 species of birds can be seen in the park area. Hikers will not want to miss taking a crack at Bicaz Gorge, a steep, a twisting-and-turning climb more than three miles long.

Going south from Suceava we reach Neamt County , located in the central-eastern part of Romania. Neighboring counties are: Suceava, Harghita, Bacau, Iasi and Vaslui.
Neamt County is an area blessed with many tourist sites: Century-old monasteries, fascinating museums, fortresses and strongholds as well as many natural parks ideal for hiking and wild-life watching. Monasteries Neamt – the oldest in eastern Romania (Moldavia) and Agapia – featuring by Romania’s best known painters: Nicolae Grigorescu at Agapia Monastery, the Ceahlau Mountain – also known as The Athos of Romanian Orthodoxy – the beautiful and spectacular Cheile Bicazului (Bicaz Gorges) Vanatori Nature Reserve, are all located in Neamt.

How to get there:

Road access: From the west
- DN 12C road via Gheorgheni – Lacul Rosu – Cheile Bicazului
- DN 15 road via Toplita – Borsec -  Mestecani – Campulung Moldovenesc – Gura Humorului
- Valea Moldovei – Falticeni – Vadul Moldovei – Boroaia – Targu Neamt

From the east
- E85 road to Cristesti and continue on DN 15B   (Cristesti – Poiana Largului – Targu Neamt)

From the south
- DN 15 road via Bacau – Buhusi – Roznov – Piatra Neamt – Bicaz – Poiana Largului
- DN 2 road via Bacau – Roman – Pascani
- DJ 15D road via  Piatra Neamt – Roman – Vaslui
- DJ 17B road via Poiana Largului – Vatra Dornei

Railway access:
You can reach Neamt County from Bacau or Pascani

Nearby airports:
Suceava Airport (40 miles from Targu Neamt) – flights from Bucharest and Timisoara
Bacau International Airport – flights from Bucharest, Timisoara and several cities in Italy
Iasi International Airport – flights from Bucharest, Timisoara, Constanta, Vienna and Budapest.

The wild Romania: the Danube Delta
By Sorana Burtila

One way or another, we have all heard about the Danube Delta. It is part of the Danube Delta Biosphere Reservation; the only Delta in the world declared a Reservation of the Biosphere; the most widespread compact reed area on the planet; one of the largest humid areas in the world as a habitat of water birds; a paradise full of pelicans, water lilies, fish etc.
As on any initiation trip, this one, too, begins with a thorough documentation using the internet. In this respect, the Danube Delta Biosphere Reserve website provides essential information in international languages such as English, French, Italian, and German: on its location, structure, genesis, diversity, touristic itineraries etc. www.ddbra.ro

But what is actually hiding behind this simple painting we have created? What are the subtle hues if we look a little closer? What are the local flavours impossible to find by means of an internet search?
Discovering the Danube Delta at first hand should start in the city of Tulcea, the Delta’s entrance gate. Up to this point you can travel by car or by public transportation. From Bucharest there are daily trips organised by Augustina Trans company.
The trip takes approximately 4.5 hours with a twenty-minute break at a service station. The landscape will surely capture your attention and you may often feel the need to take your camera and capture the sunflower and rapeseed fields.

Augustina Trans
Address: 242A Plevnei Rd. (across the street from Carrefour Orhideea).
Phone: +40 743 334 840;
Schedule: 06:30 – 19:00
If you travel by car, you should follow the Bucuresti – Slobozia – Tandarei – Harsova – Tulcea route.

Tulcea, also called the city at the Danube’s gates, befuddles you, particularly in the summer months, with the bustle of tourists, the ships’ sirens, the turmoil which sets the scene for your water adventure! Nevertheless, do not be hasty; regardless of how drawn you are to the Danube, it is worth making a stop here, be it just for a couple of hours or a night’s stay at one of the many hotels on the waterfront.

In Tulcea you can visit a research institute comprising:

The Danube Delta Museum (do not miss the aquarium!)
Address: 32 Progresului Str.
Phone: +40 240 515 866; +40 240 515 866
E-mail: muzeu@danubedelta.org

The Art Museum
Address: 2 Grigore Antipa St.
Phone: +40 240 513 249

The Ethnography and Folk Art Museum
Address: 2, 9 Mai St.
Phone: +40 240 516 204
(This is the author’s favourite museum in the city)

The History and Archaeology Museum
Address: Independence Monument Park
Phone: +40 240 513 626

The Independence Monument
Monument Hill, Monument Park

You can also find out more at the Tulcea Tourist Information Centre, located on the waterfront. Here you can find a map of  the Delta which will help you decide where to visit! Amongst the Delta’s  hundreds of square kilometres, which is the one to unravel the mysteries you have read about?
It all depends on how many days we have available for this journey, on your budget and what you like: adventure, relaxation, exploration, sports, family, cultural tourism. The Delta has a story for every type of adventurer.
If you can only spare a day or one and a half days, the recommended option would be to sleep at a hotel in Tulcea, and from there to go on a 4-5-hour trip on the waterways.
If you can spare more than one or two days, then I would suggest starting on the right-hand side, on the Saint George (Sfantul Gheorghe) branch, the oldest of all the Danube’s branches. If you so choose, you can go by car to the first tourist towns, Mahmudia and Murighiol, thus saving time and money. The trip by water, however, is a better option since we are, after all, in the Danube Delta! Authentic landscapes reveal themselves on the narrow and hidden waterways. So do not hesitate to ask for the locals’ help. Nearly every Bed & Breakfast also provides boat trips on the adjacent lakes and canals.

Still, as far as lodging is concerned, we would recommend the Cormoran Complex: recommended for tourists “in a hurry” who wish to capture a glimpse of the Delta’s soul.

Cormoran complex
Phone: +40 744 656 372
Web: www.cormoran.ro
E-mail: office@cormoran.ro

On Sfantul Gheorghe branch, we hear people often talking about the town by the same name, a town far from the madding crowd, where the Danube merges into the Black Sea.
Sfantul Gheorghe, with its sandy beach, is also home to the Anonimul Film festival in August every year. During the daytime, films are screened in the halls of the Green Village Cinema Complex.

Complex Green Village
Phone: +40 21 230 05 07, +40 21 230 05 08
Web: www.greenvillage.ro
E-mail:info@deltasfantugheorghe.ro
At night all the films within the Festival are screened at the campsite, onto a giant screen, in the open air.

Dolphin Campsite
Phone: +40 21 230 05 07, +40 21 230 05 08
Web: www.dolphincamping.ro
E-mail: info@deltasfantugheorghe.ro

Access to the town is only possible by boat, which can be taken from Tulcea (Tulcea – Sfantul Gheorghe, 4 hour trip), Mahmudia (Mahmudia – Sfantul Gheorghe, 2 and a half hour trip) or Murighiol (Murighiol – Sfantul Gheorghe, 2 hour trip). The trips are organised by the Navrom Delta SA Tulcea company:
Navrom Delta Tulcea
Phone: +40240511553
Web: www.navrom.x3m.ro
E-mail: navdelta@x3m.ro

The middle branch of the Danube, Sulina, is the most easily accessible from a tourist point of view. Daily trips leave for Sulina, run either by the Navrom Delta Company or by private companies such as:
Nave Rapide
Phone: +40 749.909.472, +40 732 630 356
Web: www.nave-rapide.ro

Next on our route is the Mila 23 fishermen’s village, situated on the Old Danube at the heart of an amalgam of waterways, pools and swamps. Mila 23 is one of the most important and best known departure points on tourist itineraries in the Delta.
Crişan fishermen’s village completes the picture. This is the starting point for other tourist itineraries, towards the Caraorman bank (renowned for its sand dunes) or towards the Red and Puiu lakes.

Finally, at the end of the journey on this branch we discover the second largest town in the Danube Delta – Sulina. About Sulina one can talk in many ways and from different angles, be it as the easternmost town in Romania, or as the headquarters of the European Danube Commission, or its unique maritime graveyard, or the wild, local beach. The town situated at the Danube’s entry into the Black Sea provides numerous lodging possibilities. Here is one most often talked about amongst tourists.

Pensiunea Perla
Address: 155 1st Street
Phone: +40 754 200 300
E-mail: contact@perla-sulina.ro

Finally, the westernmost and probably the wildest branch of the Danube, Chilia branch. We should say that Chilia branch is a place for those with a passion for nature and fishing. Tourism here is less developed and perhaps this is why the place has maintained so much authenticity. The journey starts again from Tulcea, either by public transportation or with private barges which are impossible to miss during a stroll on the Tulcea waterfront. In fact, you will be overwhelmed by people asking you whether you wish to take a trip to the Delta!
We recommend public transportation to anyone coming to the Delta, despite the protests this might stir. If your sojourn lasts at least 4 days and you are not pressed for time, then public transportation is the best option to take the pulse of the Delta. Do not expect extraordinary transport conditions! But you can expect to see and meet the Delta’s fascinating people, to discover their life stories, hardships, challenges and joys.

At the end of the public transportation journey on the Chilia branch, at the border between Romania and Ukraine, we discover the Periprava Lipovan village.
Far away from the noisy turmoil of the town, in the middle of nature, where the sky, earth and water meet, at the end of the world.

This area represents a true cultural mosaic: Periprava – a Lipovan village, Sfistofca and Letea – Ukrainian villages, and C.A. Rosetti – mainly Romanian population.
In Periprava, on the spot of the former forced labour camp of the Communist regime, you will find a 1,000 m2 tourist estate, Ultima Frontiera (The Final Frontier). Placed against a fantastically wild landscape, it offers sport fishing (pike in particular) and a well-developed infrastructure (electric cars, kayaks, row boats, motor boats, sport fishing equipment).

The Final Frontier
Phone: +40 769 030 616, +40 755 080 337
Web: www.hotelultimafrontiera.com
E-mail: reservations@hotelultimafrontiera.com

This is the starting point for some of the most important tourist itineraries from the Danube Delta: to Letea Forest with its sand dunes and tropical lianas, to Merheiul Mare and Merheiul Mic lakes, to the temporary fishing shelters on Suez canal, to the traditional villages or to the cormorant colonies.
The Delta is a mosaic of history, people, eras, places, landscapes, and fishing. It offers an invitation to all nature lovers of all ages: ornithologists, biologists, photographers, and fishermen.

We must, however, add a few useful pieces of advice:
- Remember to always carry cash with you, in the local currency; you will not find any ATMs, currency exchange points or POSs for payments by card.
- Document yourself on the destination you wish to reach and the specific route. In Tulcea,  English and some other languages are spoken, but once the journey to the heart of the Delta has started, it will be increasingly difficult to find foreign language speakers. Nevertheless, larger B&Bs provide foreign language-speaking personnel
- Do not forget to bring anto-mosquito spray! An entire myth has been built around mosquitoes, but it must be said that mosquitoes appear mainly when night sets in and, truth be told, it is best to go indoors. In the daytime, however, they let you enjoy the Delta landscape! Nonetheless, should you bring along your children, who have more sensitive skin, it is recommended to carry your spray with you at all times.
- If you travel during summer please bring along some thicker clothes, for cooler nights, and your cagouls and wind-cheaters – especially when taking trips on the waterways.
- Your mobile phones might not always work as reception varies from place to place. This means that you should plan as many details of the journey as possible prior to your departure and book what you need to on the phone beforehand.
- Finally, we would recommend travelling to the Delta during the spring if you are ornithologists (the months of April, May), the summer if it is your first time visiting the Delta and you want to see water lilies and pelicans (June, July, August), the autumn if you are fishermen (pike in particular) or the winter if you are hunters.

By Delia Burnham
Is it easier to live a healthy life in Romania than in Western Europe? In an attempt to answer this question and guide those seeking an answer themselves, as well as tricks on how to stay on the healthy side, we have added this section on Healthy Living.

When I was asked to write about Healthy Living in Romania, it really got me thinking. It reminded me of my first year in Romania, living in Buzau, as an English Assistant through Socrates / Comenius, when all the children I met and taught always wanted to know why I had come to Romania. The discussion inevitably arrived at the point where all the children said that life in Western Europe was so much better than in Romania, and the point at which I always contradicted them. But what about the lack of violence on the streets? What about the unspoilt countryside and wild nature where you can trek without actually meeting anyone? What about the fact that most of them ate fresh fruit and vegetables from their grandmothers’ gardens or bought from the local market? What about the fact that most of them ate three home-prepared meals per day? At this point a lightbulb turned on in some of my pupils’ heads, realising that maybe life was not so bad in Romania after all!

Is it easier to live more healthily in Romania than in Western Europe? This is what I am about to take a look at.

First of all, health does not just mean physical health. If we take Japan’s example, health is more holistic, often covering the following five areas – Body, Mind, Relationships, Society and Finances. Without going into too much detail in my first column, it would be sensible to at least look a little further afield than just body.

Let’s see where Romania is on the good vs. bad list.

Advantages:

• Easy and cheap access to organic fruit and vegetables from daily markets

• Easy and cheap access to quality home-made dairy and meat products from small producers’ shops.

• Access to land on which to grow your own (renting houses with gardens in Bucharest is very inexpensive, buying land or houses in the countryside are also still fairly inexpensive).

• Families to buy produce from, similar to the box scheme in places like the UK (ordering fruit, veg, chicken, eggs, cheese, cold meats etc. from a family who sends you produce once a week)

• Great climate for agriculture and therefore diverse range of products, following the seasons and making it simple and cheap to eat locally and seasonally

• Wild and unspoilt nature accessible to all

• Bucharest is small so fairly manageable on foot and by bike

• Good, varied climate for seasonal sports

Disadvantages:

• Bucharest apparently most polluted capital in EU

• Dreadful drinking water

• Heavy traffic, both a pollutant and stress-creator

• Contagious stressful rhythm of life in Bucharest

• Extreme summers and winters make getting around Bucharest in a sporty way rather difficult

• Lack of affordable and clean health centres and swimming pools

• Small range of sports on offer through organised channels, need to organise these yourself

• Poor infrastructure leads to excess stress travelling through the city

• Lack of tourist information means that wonderful places to visit are often overlooked as very few people know about them

Overall I would say that at first glance, Bucharest is probably about average with good and bad points, but as Romania is developing there are still many ways in which one can work this to one’s advantage. In Western Europe systems, services and structures are a little more set in their ways and so it is difficult to find flexibility, where in Romania one might be able to do so.

Ultimately it is of course, up to each one of us to live healthily!

I would recommend that you start with food:

• Buy your fruit and vegetables from one of the following markets (whichever closest): Piata Domenii, Piata 1 Mai, Piata Amzei, Piata Obor, Piata Floreasca, Piata Traian, Piata Gemeni, Piata Crangasi or another one from our Shopping chapter.

• Find a good butcher! There is an excellent one near me just off Ion Mihalache called Mircea Macelaru’ on Str. Maior Campeanu 15. Or try one closer to your home from our list in the Shopping section.

Another way of easily bringing fresh food into your home is growing your own herbs or easy vegetables, such as mint, basil, thyme, rosemary, lovage, sage, or even spinach, lettuce, rocket tomatoes, or cucumbers. If you would like some advice on growing your own, please just ask the author of this section!

Drink good quality, living water!

This is a subject we can expand on:

We all know that this is a global challenge but Bucharest faces plenty of them when it comes to a clean and healthy water supply. Even though Romanian water is purified, it can still contain heavy metals, dust, sand, recycled medicine, excessive hardness, nitrates, chemicals, and the elderly piping system or even newer plastic pipes do nothing to help the situation.
Other sources of pollution are often agricultural and industrial, as many pollutants enter the water table through waste being dumped on land near to or directly into rivers.

Water in other areas of Romania may well be of a much better quality of course, and it would be interesting to hear your experiences, but on the other hand, pollution is not localised to just one area, such as Bucharest. My first year in Romania was spent in Buzau, but the water quality was not much different from Bucharest, but I know that this varies greatly.
Wellwater is often of a much better quality than tap water if you are able to use this in your area! If you have stayed at a traditional Romanian house without connection to the water mains, you may have your own stories.

Despite the fact that Apa Nova (Bucharest) of course treats and filters our water supply, many Romanian doctors still do not recommend drinking tap water. Bucharest has a problem with fresh quality water supply & lack of working purification stations.
Besides cleanliness, the natural quality of water is also extremely important. Over the last couple of decades, people have begun to study the idea of water being an energy source, i.e. “Living water,” containing natural crystals which are easily absorbed and resonate with the body’s natural energy.

Many studies of tap water have shown that its natural crystal no longer exists due to the “cleaning” treatment it undergoes before being piped round the city. This means that the body may find it difficult to absorb this type of water as the water does not resonate with the body’s energy. As a result, you may have often experienced bloatedness after drinking tapwater.
Any unnatural element, such as clorine or fluoride, which the body ingests, takes a large amount of energy to remove from the body, tiring us out and depleting our natural energy source
Having lived in Bucharest for the last 8 years, and observed the external effect that Romanian water had on my skin, I gradually understood that this was also having an adverse effect on my insides!

I invested in a water filter and optimizer (which energises, mineralises, and ionises the water) which has made a huge difference to my quality of life. I use this filtered water for cooking and all my drinking needs (boiling vegetables, making stews, brewing tea etc.) which is sometimes overlooked, but equally important in terms of what we ingest.
I also make sure I give my cats this water, and water any flowers with this, and I have seen myself how much longer a bunch of flowers actually “lasts” when fed with living water.
In addition to drinking water, I would recommend investing in a showerhead filter so you can wash in cleaner water as the body absorbs a large quantity of water whilst bathing / showering. I also use the showerhead to wash my fruit and vegetables.

Regarding other types of water we use, if you are a swimmer then I would advise you to try out different pools to see which you prefer as these also vary greatly in cleanliness.
I personally have never had any health problems caused by swimming in Romania but you could try the following out: Pescariu Sports & Spa, World Class, Club Floreasca.

Read Delia’s column on Healthy Living on www.romania-insider.com.

One Call
By Yilmaz Yildirimlar

In December 2008 I was living in Manchester, running the Radisson Blu Hotel in the Airport area. Just before Christmas, one evening, when I was preparing to switch off the light, grab my briefcase and run home to my family, the sound of the phone ringing broke the winter silence  and an inner voice told me that it would be a good idea to return and see who it was… I will never forget that phone call which changed our life and moved my family and me onto a different track… I will always remember my boss’ voice on the phone saying: “We need you in Bucharest! How soon can you start there?”

I bent over and put my briefcase down, sat down on my chair, listened to the voice and focused on the window to a faraway spot, beyond the airport lines. This is where my Romanian journey began…
I must confess I had some doubts in the beginning about Rezidor’s choice to have me in Bucharest. Questions like why me and particularly why in an Eastern European country flooded into  my mind. I am an Austrian citizen, with a multicultural background I admit, born in Istanbul, brought up in Vienna and adjusted to Amsterdam and London life over the last few years. My knowledge of Bucharest and Romania was too shallow and that scared me a little. But when I first saw the newly opened Radisson Blu Hotel, walked onto the property and met the people, all my uncertainties were quashed.
By January 2009, I was already settling into the Romanian capital and in January 2011 Radisson Blu Hotel, Bucharest was awarded Carlson Global Hotel of the Year for 2010. What an amazing ride together with people in Bucharest and and what unbelievable, surprising and excellent results and recognition we have achieved!

For me and my family, everything changed 180 degrees. New house, new neighbours, new school and preschool for our two kids, new city, language, mentality and way of living. Yet in all this fresh and undefined beginning, I had the most delightful surprise in finding a strong multicultural business community which quickly strengthened our bonds to the local environment.

They say that “Romania is the country of all opportunities”. This goes, as in all modern civilizations with no exceptions, both ways – good and bad. It is up to each person to discern which one will bear more importance in their lives! My experience in Romania has enriched me and my family in such a way that now, after two years of residency here, when our non-Romanian friends discuss about Romania, we feel responsible and very much in tune with local reality, and we clearly see that we have grown roots here. We are linked to Romania through our memories and through our childrens’ memories. We suffer when something goes wrong or when Romania is judged too harshly or is misunderstood, and we stand up and defend what we know and we are proud when we succeed. Like any Romanian, I could definitely name several areas to improve in our society, like the bureaucracy, infrastructure, mass solidarity or the politicians’ empathy towards the community reflected in quality of life. Beyond all these though, newcomers to Romania will discover a cultural and business elite very much similar to the ones to which they are accustomed  in their native countries and they will gradually understand and gain respect for the Romanian people and their history, the city’s architecture, street names, markets, arts in their various forms and expressions, or in Romanian culinary delights.

One century after the interwar period when Romania and particularly Bucharest had reached cultural and economical recognition, I am now very proud to tell my friends abroad that I manage a beautiful 5-star hotel on the famous Calea Victoriei, so full of fascinating history, in the heart of the city, one step away from the emblematic Romanian Atheneum, the Central University Library – offered as a gift to students by King Carol 1st  in 1895, or the National Art Museum hosted at the Royal Palace. Following the pattern of history, I understand that being on Calea Victoriei represents not only an important central location but most of all the guarantee of a high-class exquisite type of business. This brings me to the phone call I mentioned earlier, which in fact did not only change my life, but more importantly offered me a springboard to a global top positioning in our hospitality business.

Romania is a magnificent country, very much like Switzerland or Austria in the mountain areas. With all its Oriential and Occidental tradition and history and Balkan flavors, together with people’s Southern warmth, Romania has fused with my own personality and offered me something irreplaceable and difficult to find in modern Western society: solid, genuine, incorruptible and pure friendship, beyond business partnerships. I own this feeling. It is my real income from my Romanian experience, no matter when the phone may ring again….

A bustling, evolving and happening place
By Linda Griffin

Wow, it has been a year – it is hard to believe I took the helm of the Athénée Palace Hilton on 1st September, 2010. Time has moved quickly and I have had a few adventures and learned a few things in my brief time here.

If you are new to Bucharest, you are no doubt trying to sort out the traffic rules or in some cases lack thereof, the politics of the country and the economy. A year ago, when I was asked about Romania – I fed back that the government was about to be toppled and that there seemed to be quite some intrigue in the papers about various personalities… I now understand that this is daily fodder for the press and there is no need to get too excited.

I have also come to understand that Bucharest is a city with potential – there is a need to harness all the energy that is spent speaking negatively about it and turn that into positive action.  Yes, it is a challenge, but one I think will be worth the effort.  Have you had the chance to visit some of the parks? – they are beautiful and sometimes quirky – a wonderful  way to spend a weekend day – walking, riding or running through one of the multitude of city parks is a pleasure – I have not had the privilege of living in a European city with so many green parks available to enjoy.    This was honestly a surprise to me as my previous visits to Bucharest had both been in the early winter, a few years prior.

Bucharest also provides you with a chance to appreciate culture – if you are an aficionado or just curious – you can afford to experiment and watch wonderful performances at the Atheneum, Opera House or National Theatre.  One of the performances I really enjoyed however was going to see a Dan Puric Production – no translation required – just go and open your mind to the drama on stage.
It took me some time, but I was delighted once I left the city and managed to venture out to the mountains and countryside – it is beautiful, with many lovely towns and sites along the way.  “Why did it take me so long?” is a question I immediately began asking myself and it was again due to the negative ‘PR’ – this time regarding the road network and how long it takes to get to places.  After my first trip, I realized that the best way to enjoy this countryside is to ensure that you make the drive a part of the journey – not just what I must endure to arrive at my destination. Be adventurous and explore the little villages en route, marvel at the landscape, just be ready for the unexpected as you are driving along  I have found that there is not a lot of notice of upcoming road works, so do not be surprised when you stumble upon them.

I have lived in several countries over the last decade and a half, what I have discovered here is that you definitely need some patience and  you should plan for things not to be planned … take the new city tour bus – suddenly announced – a hop-on hop-off bus.  Great! Bucharest needs this type of investment – but it was launched without the audio functioning, without bus stops installed and without information distributed to help promote it.  This is now mostly in place… but perhaps a more little planning would have been a good thing. So what I guess I am saying is do not be surprised!

As I reflect back on all of this, I recall the first time I came to Bucharest in 2004 – I was in town just one day for a meeting, and upon completion of my meeting, I had time to take a walk. It was a damp, cold November day but I needed to get out, so I left the Hilton and wandered towards Lipscani – an area that at the time was difficult to navigate in work boots – let alone my fancy dress shoes… now look at it – a bustling,  evolving and happening place – actually – I guess this sentiment applies for all of Bucharest.

Romania – the gifted business player of “New Europe”
By Gregoire Vigroux

Romania is a country of contrasts. As a matter of fact, there is not only one Romania, but several ones, as the country is made of several regions which have very different cultural roots. Therefore, my modest view is influenced by the people I know best: the ones living in Bucharest.
First of all, I would say most Romanians are very proud of their country and cultural heritage. Never tell a Romanian his country is Slavic, or has been influenced by Turkey, because this is a very sensitive point. Romanians are very proud of their Latin heritage. They like to present their country as a “Latin Island in a Slavic Sea”.

Romanians are also extremely attached to their traditions. If you have the chance to be invited to several Romanian weddings, you will notice that the food, music and dances, are always the same. A Romanian wedding, like any other important event in Romanians’ lives, must stick to tradition. Also, do not forget your colleagues’ birthdays and name days – because it really counts for them. Some events such as Marţisor (1st March) and the Internations Women’s Day (8th March) are so important to Romanians that both dates should be marked in your agenda – and never forgotten. Offer some flowers on both occasions, because Romanians love flowers like no other population in the region. Also, never make jokes about religion, because most Romanians strongly believe in God. You can observe that easily, by looking at all the people who make the sign of the cross whilst passing a church.
Romanians are generous people. Even those who do not have much money will always invite you for dinner on special occasions – such as their birthdays. They are also the kings of hospitality and they will do their utmost to ensure you enjoy a dinner in their home. By the way, never refuse an invitation, it would not be understood.

Romanian employees tend to be obedient and docile with the managers they respect. They do not contest and complain much in front of their superiors, and tend to stick to the given instructions. Reflexes from communist times have not totally disappeared. Sometimes, you may feel lack of initiative; a reluctance to make decisions which involve risk; and incapacity to work with true autonomy. Also, I have noticed that some entrepreneurs are more interested in short-term profits than in creating long-term business value. But I also have the feeling that these weaknesses are vanishing with the new generations.

I think the most striking Romanian attribute is their amazing capacity to adapt to multicultural environments. After all, Romanians are open-minded people who like to study: many of them – no matter what their socio-cultural background is – have master’s degrees and show high aptitude for speaking foreign languages: primarily English and French, followed by Italian and Spanish. Young Romanians are also ambitious, always looking for new opportunities to grow in their company, and they can work very hard to reach their objectives.

Although some Romanians still have unpleasant reflexes harking back to the communist era, times are changing with new generations; whereas their traditions, as well as their hospitality, sensitivity, ambition, multilinguism and capacity to adapt easily in multicultural environments – are remaining intact. Romania is therefore both a charming country and a very gifted business player of the “New Europe”. And that is just great news for all those (like me) who love this country and believe in its future!

Saying goodbye to Romania!
By Clare Morley

Having spent the past two years living and working in Bucharest, it was not easy saying goodbye to a city responsible for many fun times, special experiences and some unforgettable opportunities. If it had not been for a tempting job offer I probably would not have ventured to Bucharest so I am grateful for the opportunity. Initially on a one year internship with Hospices of Hope, I joined the Fundraising team in the Bucharest office but as my first year was drawing to an end, I began to realise I was not ready to leave. Luckily, I was offered an extension and before I knew it I was coming to the end of my second year.

Working for an NGO, I experienced an insight into the different sides of Bucharest. On one hand, I would accompany nurses on home care visits and see just how poor some people are in Romania or how the Romanian health care system fails to help those with life-threatening illnesses. On the other hand, I was lucky enough to be invited to Ambassador’s residences, organise high profile events within the city and help develop the Bucharest International Marathon. I soon came to realise the vital role of Hospice Casa Sperantei and was glad to be part of such a worthwhile cause.

Although it was my job that initially brought me to Bucharest, there have been many aspects which have contributed to the memories I now have. The people, for one, are very friendly and welcoming; they are always keen for you to taste their delicious home-made treats or help you learn the lingo. I remember the first time I heard about zacusca, a traditional concoction of smoked vegetables. The idea of vegetables as a paste-like substance stored in a jar did not appeal to me but after tasting the Romanian delicacy, it is one of the many things I will miss about Romania.

Life as an Expat in Bucharest certainly involved a lot of fun for me. The city has an abundance of things to offer young people, whether it be an evening at the opera house, a walk in the park or eating at some great restaurants and bar-hopping in the old centre of Lipscani. Watching Bon Jovi perform to a crowd of 50,000 people with the Parliament palace as the backdrop has to be one of the highlights. I met some great people from all over the world throughout my time in Romania and shared many a night out or road trip to other parts of the country. More often than not I would find myself in Mojo Music Club until the early hours of the morning after having danced away to their live band and sung a few songs at karaoke. With a British feel to it, I always felt at home here!

Being an Expat, I was exposed to various opportunities which I probably would never have experienced if I had stayed in the UK. It is not often you get a phone call on a Tuesday afternoon asking if you would like to fool a celebrity by acting as an aristocratic wife in a Romanian TV show the following day. Despite having little acting experience and not knowing what I was letting myself in for, I still went with it and had a surprisingly fun day. Although, it was not so fun watching myself on television a few weeks later! Apparently Expats are in demand for these kind of shows, so keep your eyes peeled…

Less of an opportunity and more of an experience, I was bitten by a stray dog during the winter months of my first year. Although my leg was badly bruised for a good few weeks, my experience of the anti-rabies clinic was good and from then on, I was extra cautious to avoid short cuts or impose on what might be a dog’s territory.

All in all, I found Romania to be a great country with lots of potential for development over the next few years. I have no doubt that I will soon be back for a visit and making the most of the beautiful summer nights in Lipscani or enjoying a ski trip in the Carpathian mountains.