Out and About in Romania

By Friedrich Niemann

I love to travel in Romania and explore the country as much as I can. When doing so, I try to avoid the big and commercial hotels – which I know too well for obvious reasons – but also places without a soul and sense of place. Throughout the years I have discovered several locations, which truly have this sense of place and are not necessarily posh and so perceptibly pseudo-luxurious, much better – they are just perfect in what and where they are. If I would play it smart, I obviously kept those places to myself, as otherwise I would be running the risk that soon these hidden secrets won’t be secrets anymore and overrun by the curious traveler. However, that would neither do the locations justice nor the sophisticated traveler’s thirst for proper accommodation. Hence, below please find my four favorite spots in Romania.

No, it is no coincidence that all of these locations are in Transylvania!

I have been taking that deprived gravel road up to the hill of Balaban already for years, every time when I was in dire need of a tranquil place to rest and enjoy the stunning beauty of the Carpathian’s Southern Range. The ‘Inn on Balaban’ is uniquely located while it sits on a hill high above the village of Simon, next to Bran in Brasov County. Once up here the visitor can enjoy 360 degree views of the Carpathian Mountains; the Piatra Craiului to the west and the Bucegi mountains to the east, the famous Rucar – Bran corridor stretches to the South – scenic views as many and as lasting as you wish.

Casa Balaban is a purpose-built house that resembles a traditional Transylvanian farmhouse as exhibited in Sibiu’s village museum. That is where the owner of the house picked up the idea a few years ago, realized his dream and opened the Inn in 2006. It really puts you back in time in rural Romania. There is a large living room on the ground floor, with a fire place, comfy sofas, a library about Transylvania and its history and lots of antique and rural Romanian furniture. The six bedrooms on the ground – and the first floor are furnished with antiques or rebuilt traditional Romanian peasant furniture. The beds and their linen are so horrendously comfortable that you don’t want to get up in the morning anymore. Bathrooms have floor heating and tiny little windows allow you to enjoy those spectacular views even in the most private moments. As there is no other place for dinner in the area, the inn usually offers half board, which comprises a country style three-course dinner (the mamaliguta is outstanding), accompanied by a decent selection of fine Romanian wines. In the morning a very rich and local breakfast is served in the dining room.

Over the last years they have also added two more buildings, one being a beautifully restored old farm house from Simon and a second building, following the same architecture as the first, accommodating spacious meeting facilities as well as another two bedrooms.

To get there, while coming from Brasov, you need to pass through the village of Bran, about 1 km after passing Bran castle take a left following the signs for Simon. In Simon turn left at the church and follow the signs and the gravel road for approximately 4 km. Once there and no matter the weather, you don’t want to leave. And in winter, when the road is inaccessible by car, they come and pick you up with a sledge in Simon – being the truly romantic alternative. The Inn at Balaban is the perfect retreat for a weekend or a short vacation for those who enjoy nature, quietness, hiking and a sense of place. What I enjoyed most, apart from the stunning nature: there are no telephones or TV’s in the house – ok, they do have WiFi.

More about the inn on Balaban, here.

One Call
By Yilmaz Yildirimlar

In December 2008 I was living in Manchester, running the Radisson Blu Hotel in the Airport area. Just before Christmas, one evening, when I was preparing to switch off the light, grab my briefcase and run home to my family, the sound of the phone ringing broke the winter silence  and an inner voice told me that it would be a good idea to return and see who it was… I will never forget that phone call which changed our life and moved my family and me onto a different track… I will always remember my boss’ voice on the phone saying: “We need you in Bucharest! How soon can you start there?”

I bent over and put my briefcase down, sat down on my chair, listened to the voice and focused on the window to a faraway spot, beyond the airport lines. This is where my Romanian journey began…
I must confess I had some doubts in the beginning about Rezidor’s choice to have me in Bucharest. Questions like why me and particularly why in an Eastern European country flooded into  my mind. I am an Austrian citizen, with a multicultural background I admit, born in Istanbul, brought up in Vienna and adjusted to Amsterdam and London life over the last few years. My knowledge of Bucharest and Romania was too shallow and that scared me a little. But when I first saw the newly opened Radisson Blu Hotel, walked onto the property and met the people, all my uncertainties were quashed.
By January 2009, I was already settling into the Romanian capital and in January 2011 Radisson Blu Hotel, Bucharest was awarded Carlson Global Hotel of the Year for 2010. What an amazing ride together with people in Bucharest and and what unbelievable, surprising and excellent results and recognition we have achieved!

For me and my family, everything changed 180 degrees. New house, new neighbours, new school and preschool for our two kids, new city, language, mentality and way of living. Yet in all this fresh and undefined beginning, I had the most delightful surprise in finding a strong multicultural business community which quickly strengthened our bonds to the local environment.

They say that “Romania is the country of all opportunities”. This goes, as in all modern civilizations with no exceptions, both ways – good and bad. It is up to each person to discern which one will bear more importance in their lives! My experience in Romania has enriched me and my family in such a way that now, after two years of residency here, when our non-Romanian friends discuss about Romania, we feel responsible and very much in tune with local reality, and we clearly see that we have grown roots here. We are linked to Romania through our memories and through our childrens’ memories. We suffer when something goes wrong or when Romania is judged too harshly or is misunderstood, and we stand up and defend what we know and we are proud when we succeed. Like any Romanian, I could definitely name several areas to improve in our society, like the bureaucracy, infrastructure, mass solidarity or the politicians’ empathy towards the community reflected in quality of life. Beyond all these though, newcomers to Romania will discover a cultural and business elite very much similar to the ones to which they are accustomed  in their native countries and they will gradually understand and gain respect for the Romanian people and their history, the city’s architecture, street names, markets, arts in their various forms and expressions, or in Romanian culinary delights.

One century after the interwar period when Romania and particularly Bucharest had reached cultural and economical recognition, I am now very proud to tell my friends abroad that I manage a beautiful 5-star hotel on the famous Calea Victoriei, so full of fascinating history, in the heart of the city, one step away from the emblematic Romanian Atheneum, the Central University Library – offered as a gift to students by King Carol 1st  in 1895, or the National Art Museum hosted at the Royal Palace. Following the pattern of history, I understand that being on Calea Victoriei represents not only an important central location but most of all the guarantee of a high-class exquisite type of business. This brings me to the phone call I mentioned earlier, which in fact did not only change my life, but more importantly offered me a springboard to a global top positioning in our hospitality business.

Romania is a magnificent country, very much like Switzerland or Austria in the mountain areas. With all its Oriential and Occidental tradition and history and Balkan flavors, together with people’s Southern warmth, Romania has fused with my own personality and offered me something irreplaceable and difficult to find in modern Western society: solid, genuine, incorruptible and pure friendship, beyond business partnerships. I own this feeling. It is my real income from my Romanian experience, no matter when the phone may ring again….

A bustling, evolving and happening place
By Linda Griffin

Wow, it has been a year – it is hard to believe I took the helm of the Athénée Palace Hilton on 1st September, 2010. Time has moved quickly and I have had a few adventures and learned a few things in my brief time here.

If you are new to Bucharest, you are no doubt trying to sort out the traffic rules or in some cases lack thereof, the politics of the country and the economy. A year ago, when I was asked about Romania – I fed back that the government was about to be toppled and that there seemed to be quite some intrigue in the papers about various personalities… I now understand that this is daily fodder for the press and there is no need to get too excited.

I have also come to understand that Bucharest is a city with potential – there is a need to harness all the energy that is spent speaking negatively about it and turn that into positive action.  Yes, it is a challenge, but one I think will be worth the effort.  Have you had the chance to visit some of the parks? – they are beautiful and sometimes quirky – a wonderful  way to spend a weekend day – walking, riding or running through one of the multitude of city parks is a pleasure – I have not had the privilege of living in a European city with so many green parks available to enjoy.    This was honestly a surprise to me as my previous visits to Bucharest had both been in the early winter, a few years prior.

Bucharest also provides you with a chance to appreciate culture – if you are an aficionado or just curious – you can afford to experiment and watch wonderful performances at the Atheneum, Opera House or National Theatre.  One of the performances I really enjoyed however was going to see a Dan Puric Production – no translation required – just go and open your mind to the drama on stage.
It took me some time, but I was delighted once I left the city and managed to venture out to the mountains and countryside – it is beautiful, with many lovely towns and sites along the way.  “Why did it take me so long?” is a question I immediately began asking myself and it was again due to the negative ‘PR’ – this time regarding the road network and how long it takes to get to places.  After my first trip, I realized that the best way to enjoy this countryside is to ensure that you make the drive a part of the journey – not just what I must endure to arrive at my destination. Be adventurous and explore the little villages en route, marvel at the landscape, just be ready for the unexpected as you are driving along  I have found that there is not a lot of notice of upcoming road works, so do not be surprised when you stumble upon them.

I have lived in several countries over the last decade and a half, what I have discovered here is that you definitely need some patience and  you should plan for things not to be planned … take the new city tour bus – suddenly announced – a hop-on hop-off bus.  Great! Bucharest needs this type of investment – but it was launched without the audio functioning, without bus stops installed and without information distributed to help promote it.  This is now mostly in place… but perhaps a more little planning would have been a good thing. So what I guess I am saying is do not be surprised!

As I reflect back on all of this, I recall the first time I came to Bucharest in 2004 – I was in town just one day for a meeting, and upon completion of my meeting, I had time to take a walk. It was a damp, cold November day but I needed to get out, so I left the Hilton and wandered towards Lipscani – an area that at the time was difficult to navigate in work boots – let alone my fancy dress shoes… now look at it – a bustling,  evolving and happening place – actually – I guess this sentiment applies for all of Bucharest.

Romania – the gifted business player of “New Europe”
By Gregoire Vigroux

Romania is a country of contrasts. As a matter of fact, there is not only one Romania, but several ones, as the country is made of several regions which have very different cultural roots. Therefore, my modest view is influenced by the people I know best: the ones living in Bucharest.
First of all, I would say most Romanians are very proud of their country and cultural heritage. Never tell a Romanian his country is Slavic, or has been influenced by Turkey, because this is a very sensitive point. Romanians are very proud of their Latin heritage. They like to present their country as a “Latin Island in a Slavic Sea”.

Romanians are also extremely attached to their traditions. If you have the chance to be invited to several Romanian weddings, you will notice that the food, music and dances, are always the same. A Romanian wedding, like any other important event in Romanians’ lives, must stick to tradition. Also, do not forget your colleagues’ birthdays and name days – because it really counts for them. Some events such as Marţisor (1st March) and the Internations Women’s Day (8th March) are so important to Romanians that both dates should be marked in your agenda – and never forgotten. Offer some flowers on both occasions, because Romanians love flowers like no other population in the region. Also, never make jokes about religion, because most Romanians strongly believe in God. You can observe that easily, by looking at all the people who make the sign of the cross whilst passing a church.
Romanians are generous people. Even those who do not have much money will always invite you for dinner on special occasions – such as their birthdays. They are also the kings of hospitality and they will do their utmost to ensure you enjoy a dinner in their home. By the way, never refuse an invitation, it would not be understood.

Romanian employees tend to be obedient and docile with the managers they respect. They do not contest and complain much in front of their superiors, and tend to stick to the given instructions. Reflexes from communist times have not totally disappeared. Sometimes, you may feel lack of initiative; a reluctance to make decisions which involve risk; and incapacity to work with true autonomy. Also, I have noticed that some entrepreneurs are more interested in short-term profits than in creating long-term business value. But I also have the feeling that these weaknesses are vanishing with the new generations.

I think the most striking Romanian attribute is their amazing capacity to adapt to multicultural environments. After all, Romanians are open-minded people who like to study: many of them – no matter what their socio-cultural background is – have master’s degrees and show high aptitude for speaking foreign languages: primarily English and French, followed by Italian and Spanish. Young Romanians are also ambitious, always looking for new opportunities to grow in their company, and they can work very hard to reach their objectives.

Although some Romanians still have unpleasant reflexes harking back to the communist era, times are changing with new generations; whereas their traditions, as well as their hospitality, sensitivity, ambition, multilinguism and capacity to adapt easily in multicultural environments – are remaining intact. Romania is therefore both a charming country and a very gifted business player of the “New Europe”. And that is just great news for all those (like me) who love this country and believe in its future!

Saying goodbye to Romania!
By Clare Morley

Having spent the past two years living and working in Bucharest, it was not easy saying goodbye to a city responsible for many fun times, special experiences and some unforgettable opportunities. If it had not been for a tempting job offer I probably would not have ventured to Bucharest so I am grateful for the opportunity. Initially on a one year internship with Hospices of Hope, I joined the Fundraising team in the Bucharest office but as my first year was drawing to an end, I began to realise I was not ready to leave. Luckily, I was offered an extension and before I knew it I was coming to the end of my second year.

Working for an NGO, I experienced an insight into the different sides of Bucharest. On one hand, I would accompany nurses on home care visits and see just how poor some people are in Romania or how the Romanian health care system fails to help those with life-threatening illnesses. On the other hand, I was lucky enough to be invited to Ambassador’s residences, organise high profile events within the city and help develop the Bucharest International Marathon. I soon came to realise the vital role of Hospice Casa Sperantei and was glad to be part of such a worthwhile cause.

Although it was my job that initially brought me to Bucharest, there have been many aspects which have contributed to the memories I now have. The people, for one, are very friendly and welcoming; they are always keen for you to taste their delicious home-made treats or help you learn the lingo. I remember the first time I heard about zacusca, a traditional concoction of smoked vegetables. The idea of vegetables as a paste-like substance stored in a jar did not appeal to me but after tasting the Romanian delicacy, it is one of the many things I will miss about Romania.

Life as an Expat in Bucharest certainly involved a lot of fun for me. The city has an abundance of things to offer young people, whether it be an evening at the opera house, a walk in the park or eating at some great restaurants and bar-hopping in the old centre of Lipscani. Watching Bon Jovi perform to a crowd of 50,000 people with the Parliament palace as the backdrop has to be one of the highlights. I met some great people from all over the world throughout my time in Romania and shared many a night out or road trip to other parts of the country. More often than not I would find myself in Mojo Music Club until the early hours of the morning after having danced away to their live band and sung a few songs at karaoke. With a British feel to it, I always felt at home here!

Being an Expat, I was exposed to various opportunities which I probably would never have experienced if I had stayed in the UK. It is not often you get a phone call on a Tuesday afternoon asking if you would like to fool a celebrity by acting as an aristocratic wife in a Romanian TV show the following day. Despite having little acting experience and not knowing what I was letting myself in for, I still went with it and had a surprisingly fun day. Although, it was not so fun watching myself on television a few weeks later! Apparently Expats are in demand for these kind of shows, so keep your eyes peeled…

Less of an opportunity and more of an experience, I was bitten by a stray dog during the winter months of my first year. Although my leg was badly bruised for a good few weeks, my experience of the anti-rabies clinic was good and from then on, I was extra cautious to avoid short cuts or impose on what might be a dog’s territory.

All in all, I found Romania to be a great country with lots of potential for development over the next few years. I have no doubt that I will soon be back for a visit and making the most of the beautiful summer nights in Lipscani or enjoying a ski trip in the Carpathian mountains.