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Brasov: Medieval heritage and gateway to mountain resorts
Brasov was the capital of the Barsa Land, and is today an upcoming city – undoubtedly you will notice the recently built shopping ...read more
Brasov was the capital of the Barsa Land, and is today an upcoming city – undoubtedly you will notice the recently built shopping malls and industrial estates as well as the sites still in development at the outskirts. The city looks back on 800 years of turbulent history at the point of intersection between Orient and Occident.
By Holger Wermke (text) and Anca Gansca (recommendations)
Founded by Teutonic knights at the beginning of the 13th century, until the 18th century it was still predominantly inhabited by Transylvanian Saxons – a heritage that gives the city its special German-like distinction. Once through the ring of block districts, you reach the old town that lies framed by steep slopes in a valley. At its end soars the 65 meter high tower of the so called Black Church, which got its name after a devastating fire swept across the town in 1689 leaving it with soot-blackened walls. The largest gothic church in Romania, it was built between 1385 and 1477; after several renovations the interior became mostly baroque. The large collection of Turkish carpets to be seen inside the church gives you an impression how tight the connections between Transylvania and the orient have been.
But not so fast. Before we have a closer look at this landmark you should stroll around the lively old town’s streets. Walking up the pedestrian precinct Republic Boulevard (B-ul Republicii) you will find shop after shop, and numerous cafés and restaurants, usually with plenty of inhabitants and tourists – the enjoyable atmosphere is not least a result of ongoing restorations within the historic centre – in summertime these places are suitable to take a rest, sitting at a table in the middle of the street, watching the crowd. If you walk further you will get to the fan-shaped Town Hall Square (Piaţa Sfatului), a wide space with the Town Hall in its middle, lined with red-roofed merchant houses. The building dates from 1420 and for centuries hosted the Saxon town council.
Maybe you already noticed at the city’s entrance, but if you look upwards to the eastern slope you can see the Hollywood-like lettering writing the city´s name above the roofs. The respective mountain is called Pinnacle (Tampa), which is 955 meters high.
There is a funicular (cable car) on Avenue Tiberiu Brediceanu (Aleea Brediceanu), which is also the starting point for a marked footpath up to the top. You can find the station near the Weavers´ Bastion which is part of the former city wall. Parts of the wall are still intact; some of the fortifications from the 15th century like the White and the Black Towers are open to visitors, and the old fortress on the hill of the same name (Dealul Cetăţii) houses a restaurant.
Passing through the Schei gate, situated some 300 meters behind the Black Church, you enter the traditional Romanian district. Up until the 17th century Romanians were not allowed to acquire property within the city walls, which was a privilege of the Saxon population. Thus, Romanians settled outside the fortifications, e.g. in Schei District which is one of the oldest. Do you feel the slightly changing atmosphere? Houses are smaller, huddling together, streets are narrower. In midst of this quarter at Unity Square (Piata Unirii) stands a pretty orthodox church, and alongside the oldest Romanian school.
At the end of the narrow valley a forest road leads through the woods to the Poiana Brasov ski resort, 12 kilometers outside the city. Thus, if you plan a winter trip to ski in the Carpathians this area might be the one of your choice. It is accessible by car via the Oak Street (str. Stejarisului) or from the small town Rasnov situated just west of Brasov via the National Road DN 1E. Various pensions and hotels offer accommodation; eight ski-slopes are available ranging from three hundred meters to three kilometers in length. Brasov’s surrounding regions also offer some interesting places. For sure, you have heard of castle Bran, the alleged seat of Count Dracula. Let´s get rid of this myth. Since the first western tourists quested for the vampire’s castle somebody decided to sell them Bran as the one. So the marketing machine started to work and now the small location is overgrown with thousands of adventure-seeking visitors, getting their money thrown out of their pockets by smart Romanians. Anyway, the castle looks nice, but actually was built by the Brasovians to control a toll collection point. Yes, there are stories that Vlad the Impaler stayed a night or two here, but it was definitely not his castle. In the case of Vlad there are definitely more authentic places.
Still, the castle lies at the edge of the Bucegi Massive, which comes to a few famous mountain stations like Sinaia or Predeal. A recommendable natural site is the National Park of King´s Rock (Piatra Craiului). Along the 25 kilometers long limestone ridges you will find a number of summits, the 2,244 meter Piscul Baciului being the highest. The area is a hideaway for rare plants and animals, among them wolves and bears – a paradise for nature lovers and friends of hiking. Some 50 kilometers west of Brasov is another gorgeous hiking challenge – a trail up to 10 days long along the ridge of the Fagaras Mountains.
Do you prefer more convenient amusement? You want to learn about regional history? Then you must not miss the fortified church of Prejmer. The monolithic white colossus dominates the wide square of the village that is about 15 kilometers outside of Brasov. Ten meter high walls repelled the enemies that came, bad luck for the dwellers, quite often across the mountains. The village was sacked more than 50 times over the centuries, but the holy fortress resisted. In 1999 Unesco put it on their world heritage list. From May to October you can visit the church between 09.00 and 17.00 hours, and on Saturdays until 15.00 hours. The same is true from November to April; but it is closed on Sundays and Mondays. Any of the former Saxon villages in this region has its fortified church, as you will see if you drive through the country; in contrast the peasant fortresses are a rarity. But, you can find one on way, via the National Road DN 73 back to Bucharest. It lies above Rasnov.
Built by Teutonic Knights in 1215 its walls enclose some houses as well as a small church. Enjoy the view from the platform into the country before you start out to the capital.
Phone: +40 0755 08 55 55
Web: www.parc-aventura.ro
The park offers 100 different activities in the forest in trees at different heights depending on the chosen route. Prices vary from RON 37 for a single adult to RON 21 for children. Group pricing is
available.
Address: 2 F, Grivitei Blvd.
Phone: +40 0268 44 00 70
Web: www.paradisulacvatic.ro
This water park is the largest covered recreational complex in the country. It has modern pools, Jacuzzis, saunas, a solarium, a massage center, a beauty salon, and water slides for the kids. Tickets from RON 55 for adults to RON 15 for children.
Address: 507210 Sinca Noua, Brasov County
Phone: +40 268 228 601
Web: www.equus-silvania.com/en/indexe.htm
Highly recommended by several readers, this horse riding and guesthouse pension close to Brasov seems to be perfect for a family week-end with kids and horses.
Address: 12-14, Piata Sfatului
Phone: +40 268 41 05 33
Web: www.casahirscher.ro
In Piata Sfatului you will discover an historic building called the Merchants House. It was built in the 16th century now houses Casa Hirscher; a very international scene, with high prices confirming the excellent food quality.
Address: 2, Apollonia Hirscher St.
Phone: +40 268 47 22 78
Web: www.kellersteakhouse.ro
Situated in the historical center of Brasov, in a building dating from the late 1400s, its specialties include beef, chicken, fish, pork and lamb dishes. The wine list boasts over 100 varieties.
Address: 27 Muresenilor St.
Phone: +40 268 41 97 75
Web: www.sergianagrup.ro
If you are looking for traditional Romanian food and music, then Sergiana is a must. In traditional Transylvanian costumes, the wait staff serves home-made bread and pork cracklings with red onion on the house. It is the perfect place to enjoy a Romanian atmosphere with your friends.
Address: 37, Castelului St.
Phone: +40 372 74 17 45
Web: www.ceaietc.ro
If you are alone, with your soul mate or with your friends, for sure you will love this place that makes you feel like home. It is the only tea house in Brasov and it offers a great variety of fine tea (green, black, mate, Rooibos, fruit and plant infusion), lemonade, natural juices and cakes. It has a very nice and special atmosphere; you will also find art exhibitions, great music, hand-made souvenirs, books and magazines, and a lot of board games. They also organize events: exhibitions, live music, workshops, and board games competitions. It is non-smoking inside (but there is a room where you can smoke hookah), and offers free wireless.
Address: 11, Piata Sfatului
Phone: +40 742 47 95 63
Web: www.cafedeparisbrasov.ro
With great coffee and a big terrace in summer, it brings French taste to Brasov.
Address: 29, Eroilor Blvd.
Phone: +40 268 41 41 13
Formula Pub feels very Mediterranean, and it is a nice place to drink beer and eat specialty pastas.
Good music at a level that allows normal conversation! You can see live broadcasts of Formula 1 and other sports.
Address: 24, 15 Noiembrie Blvd.
Phone: +40 268 47 54 46
Web: www.forsalepub.ro
If you are looking for something original, For Sale patrons consume nearly a ton of nuts per month! All those who come and eat something in the pub get peanuts on the house, and are “trained” by the waiters to throw the shells on the floor. Also, great cocktails!
Address: 7, Garii Blvd.
Phone: +40 757 20 04 00
Web: www.kasho.ro
Dress to impress or you won’t get in! The very expensive drinks, loud music, good-looking girls and fancy people are the main attractions of this ‘stylish’ club.
Address: 19, Piata Sfatului
Phone: +40 268 47 79 46
Web: www.bellamuzica.ro
Situated in a 400 year old building with neo classical architecture, this hotel features a restaurant with Mexican, Hungarian and international specialties. Prices range from RON 220 for a standard to RON 540 for an apartment with a Jacuzzi.
Address: 20, Michael Weiss, St.
Phone+40 268 47 52 12
Web: www.casarozelor.ro
A creation of medieval 15th century architecture, and situated in the historical center of Brasov, this hotel boasts National Cultural Heritage status. The interior design of the House of Roses features luxury apartments with both contemporary and ancient artwork. It is a quiet, very clean and chic place where you can spend a most romantic weekend. One night for two, including breakfast, runs around EUR 84.
Address: 62, Iuliu Maniu Blvd.
Phone: +40 368 40 55 22
Web: www.pensiuneambient.ro
This guesthouse is near hotel Ambient, and offers quality services and free high speed internet access.
The classic design, relaxed atmosphere and good prices attract many tourists.
This is the main pedestrian street of the old center. It features a surprising amount of shoe, clothing, accessories, and bookstores. You will also find ATMs, pharmacies and banks.
Address: 2, Bazaltului, St.
Phone: +40 268 54 90 73
Web: www.elianamall-brasov.ro
At the Bran – Moeciu exit, and next to the Real hypermarket, the mall offers shops, a cinema, fast-food, restaurants, ATMs, a pharmacy and an interior playground for children.
For constantly updated and in-depth info, check out the following links:
www.iubescbrasovul.ro
www.brasovcity.ro
www.ghidbrasov.ro
Holger Wermke is a native German who has been living in Sibiu for two years, where he is a journalist for the Allgemeine Deutsche Zeitung für Rumänien, a German-language newspaper. His latest book „Weltkulturerbe in Siebenbürgen”, a German-language guide to the UNESCO Heritage Sites throughout Transylvania, was published last December.
Anca Gansca is Romanian and has lived in Brasov since 2009. She opened a tea house where people truly “feel at home”! Anca is passionate about the human resources field, likes to visit other cities, play board games with friends and to make tea for everyone.
The citadel of Sibiu, former European Culture Capital
By Holger Wermke (text) and Mateo Urquijo (recommendations)
Since its status as the European Cultural Capital in 2007, Sibiu has become ...read more
The citadel of Sibiu, former European Culture Capital
By Holger Wermke (text) and Mateo Urquijo (recommendations)
Since its status as the European Cultural Capital in 2007, Sibiu has become especially well known far beyond Romanian borders. Previously, it had enjoyed renown as the Jewel of Southern Transylvania, though perhaps not quite as polished as the present moment. Five years later, the city still offers a broad cultural programme throughout the year.
Like numerous other cities in the region, its origins can be found in a settlement founded by German colonists in the 12th century. They say that a certain Hermann was the leader of these settlers, so the village – initially mentioned in 1223 – was baptised and carries it unofficially even today: Hermannstadt.
Getting there
National Road DN 7 passes through Sibiu, which is actually one of the most important transit routes to Bucharest from the Hungarian border. Coming from Bucharest you head for Pitesti and follow the road signs to Sibiu, five hours by car in total. Buses leave Bucharest from Autogara Militari (B-ul Iuliu Maniu no. 141, next to Metro Station Pacii), a recommendable and low priced alternative to the train. If you prefer to travel fast and comfortably a plane might be your means of transport since Sibiu has one daily flight to Bucharest with Tarom, but only from Monday to Friday. Book in advance for excellent deals.
What to do there
The oldest and most interesting part of the town lies at the end of a ridge that protrudes in the valley of the River Cibin. In the middle of the old town you will find an incredible square, called the Great Square (Piata Mare). This square is framed with a couple of interesting houses. The most impressive ones are situated on the northern side. On your right-hand you see the comparably new Catholic Church that was built ostensibly between 1726 and 1733 by the Austrian Habsburg sovereigns (having conquered Transylvania in 1699), who demonstrated to their respective protestant and orthodox subjects the new constellation of power. The next building on the left houses is the Tourist Information Center on the ground floor. The ladies who work there are very kind and helpful. Besides this renovated edifice is the new town hall, and right above the tourist office is the office of the mayor, whose seat is taken by one of the few remaining Saxons in Transylvania, Klaus Johannis.
A nice side note: although Germans represent only 2 percent of the population in the city, namely some 2,000, they command the political power on both local and county levels.
After 10 years of stagnation, the Romanians decided to vote for the Saxon, Klaus Johannis, who won the mayoral elections in 2000, and since then, has held office.
Two hundred years earlier, there was also a Saxon who rendered outstanding services for the region.
Samuel von Brukenthal was the only Transylvanian governor during the Austro-Hungarian regency. He bequeathed a fabulous collection of paintings as well as real estate to the Saxon Nation. The impressive baroque building at the square’s exit is the Brukenthal castle. Today it serves as the main complex of the museum with the same name, with its world-renowned collection of Flemish masterpieces, but has a lot more to offer – in any case, worth a tour.
At this point we could go on and on, as every house could tell a story, but you will discover and learn more if you come to visit. When you leave the square between Brukenthal castle and the Town Hall you will reach the innermost point of the former three defensive rings (the Great Square was the third one). Huet Square (Piata Huet) is dominated by the Evangelic Church, dating from the 14th century. The Gothic church was finished around 1520. The building is currently under reconstruction. After many years of fundraising, the parish got obtained EU funds which enabled restoration. Despite reconstruction, you should not miss the view from the tower. If you catch a clear day you will enjoy a delightful view over Sibiu, decorated with the panorama of the Carpathians.
Opposite the church entrance stands Brukenthal High School, a renowned school where pupils are still educated in German, thus attracting a lot of Romanian children with wealthy parents (Speaking German is a highly-prized asset in Romania!). Walk around the church and enjoy the view across the roofs of the lower town. If you have not noticed yet, keep an eye on the dormer windows, or let them keep an eye on you – these eye-shaped dormers are unique and almost exclusively found in Sibiu.
On the eastern corner of the square you see a little bridge above the road to the lower town; this is the so-called Liar’s Bridge. If you come at the weekend you will most likely see a newly-wed couple posing for their wedding album. Directly to the right is the Small Square (Piata Mica), then the second fortification, now the pub mile, where on summer evenings you will jostle for tables at the overcrowded bars and pizzerias.
Festivals all over the year
We mentioned Sibiu’s cultural programme at the beginning of our article. An extraordinary highlight is the annual Sibiu International Theatre Festival which is held every spring, starting at the end of May. The festival comes with a multitude of events. It stages major international productions, the finest productions in Romanian theatre, as well as street and music performances from around the world, all taking place daily in Sibiu’s historical centre, in its squares and buildings, and inside churches and medieval fortresses of Sibiu’s scenic surroundings. The festival also features dance–theatre performances, puppet theatre and light displays. The hard choice is only where to go.
There are a couple of other festivals such as the Jazz Festival in May, the Rockfestival Artmania and the Medieval Festival both held in August. A couple of years ago, Sibiu began organising a Christmas market in December, which is modelled on original ones inWestern Europe, and grows from year to year. If you arestaying in Sibiu at this time of the yearthen we recommend drinking a hot mug of mulled wine at the snow-covered Great Square.
Where to stay
Hotel Roberts
Address: 16-18,Charles Darwin St.
Phone: +40 269 212 222
Web: www.hotelroberts.ro
Sibiu has an incredible number of hotels, but this one truly stands out. It is a family run business, and the service is unmatched in the city. On top of that, it is far cheaper than the name-brand hotels. The owners are extremely helpful and can help you make any arrangements you may need, and they speak perfect English.
Hilton Hotel
Address: 1, Padurea Dumbrava St.
Phone: +40 269 252 986
Web: www.hilton.co.uk/sibiu
This is the second Hilton hotel opened in Romania.
Pensiunea Daniel
Address: 1, Masarilor St.
Phone: +40 0269 243 924
Web: www.pensiuneadanielsibiu.in-romania.ro/
This quaint little B&B is centrally located and offers good value for money.
Hotel Continental Forum
Address: 10, Piata Unirii
Phone: +40 372 692 692
Web: www.continentalhotels.ro/Continental-Forum-Sibiu/
This is one of the largest and most expensive hotels in the city. Right downtown, you can treat yourself to quite the luxurious weekend there. Book in advance; rates can be extremely high.
Restaurants
La Turn
Address: 1, Piata Mare
Phone: +40 727 52 88 76
Web: www.laturn.com
Everyone in the city knows this restaurant. It sits almost directly under the Council Tower between the Great and Small Squares. They have Italian/Romanian food and wine at very reasonable prices, in a great atmosphere.
Crama Sibiana
Address: 1-3 Avram Iancu St.
Phone: +40 0369 40 53 71
Web: www.cramasibiana.ro
Set in a medieval cellar, this restaurant features traditional Transylvanian specialties in a very warm and welcoming atmosphere. The prices are very good, just like the food.
Crama Sibiu Vechi
Address: 3 Papiu Ilarian St.
Phone: +40 269 212814
Web: www.sibiulvechi.ro
This is probably the best-known restaurant for Romanian food in Sibiu. In the evenings you might need a reservation to get your table, but then you get your meal from waiters in traditional costumes and can even enjoy traditional music.
Restaurant Hermania
Address: 2, Filarmonicii St.
Phone: +40 755 05 59 99
Web: www.hermania.sobis.ro
This is one of the best-known restaurants in the city and it is housed in the old Philharmonic complex, hence the name. It serves mainly traditional Romanian and German food as befits the region!
Restaurant Felinarului
Address: 8 Felinarului St.
Phone: + 40 749 901 171
Web: www.felinarulhostelsibiu.ro
This tiny place is hiding away in a narrow street in the old town. The Romanian-Irish-owners serve modern, international food in a lovely, warm ambiance.
Cafes and Pubs
Sibiu has a wealth of cafes and pubs. Just walk through any one of the three squares and take your pick.
Don’t like what you see? Just walk 30 meters forward and there will be many more to choose from. Especially in Piata Mica (the Small Square) you will find a great selection. Still, our favorite is Cafe Wien.
Cafe Wien
Address: 4, Piata Huet
Phone: +40 269 22 32 23
Web: www.cafewien.ro
This Austrian cafe overlooks the old part of the city. Bring a book, and enjoy pastries, excellent coffees and teas, and the great atmosphere. Even when full, you feel like you are in your own world. And don’t worry about loud music; they play Viennese radio all day long.
Sinaia
By Ioana Enache
Sinaia is known as the Pearl of the Carpathians. Unmatched in history, the former summer residence of the Royal Family has the largest number of monuments per ...read more
By Ioana Enache
Sinaia is known as the Pearl of the Carpathians. Unmatched in history, the former summer residence of the Royal Family has the largest number of monuments per capita, it is a must-see for those living in Romania.
Sinaia was a town that grew like a fairytale. When the first king of Romania, Carol I visited the country for the first time, he felt in love with his surroundings and decided to establish his summer residence in the area. At that time, the Monastery of Sinaia was all the area had, and where the city got its name (after the biblical Mount Sinai).
King Carol I appointed an architect to develop the plans for what would become one of Europe’s most impressive castles: Castle Peles. Not surprisingly, and at almost the same time, everyone in high society, including politicians and wealthy families, also decided to build their own residences in Sinaia. At the beginning of the 20th century, Sinaia was the place to be: an elegant, cultural city that was full of life.
Needless to say, Sinaia is a very beautiful city, full of history, architecture and jaw-dropping landscapes, but, as communism left its marks over the city, sometimes its architectural treasures are hidden behind massive hotels or blocks of flats. I recommend you take an organized tour of Sinaia to make sure you see the real stuff.
Until the current railway modernization is finished, unless you enjoy long train rides, it is best to go by car. Now, with the ring road around Ploiesti, and if you manage to avoid departing from Bucharest on Friday late afternoon it should take about 1.5 hours.
Address: George Enescu St., cartier Cumpatu
Phone: +40 244 31 03 02
Web: www.piatrasoimului.ro
I would recommend this small place especially for families with kids. Check for special weekend deals. The place is very clean and they serve good, fresh & tasty food.
Address: 2A, Aleea Pelesului
Phone: +40 244 31 55 95
Web: www.hotelbastion.ro
This is a quieter option: it is actually the newly renovated former royal stable, and it is quite close to the famous Peles Castle.
Address: Cumpatu St.
Phone: +40 723 34 71 03
Web: www.vrbo.com/258444
If you want to travel in style and really want to indulge yourself and be surrounded by quality and classy details check on Villa Poem Boem. This is a private rental. The pictures will convince you, and the real experience there will make you go back again and again.
My advice would be to stay at least 2-3 days to really feel the city, to breathe great fresh air and enjoy the beautiful landscape. In winter you can ski; and in spring, summer, and autumn you can visit museums, go hiking, enjoy parks or swimming pools, and make it your hub for daily trips in the area: Bran, Sighisoara, etc!
Take a Tour of Sinaia organized by the Asociatia Redescopera Sinaia . Together with a team of researchers from the Muzeul Taranului Roman (MTR), we have a tour like no other. They will help you discover great places, architecture, monuments, and history you couldn’t get elsewhere. It is also full of short stories that are some of the best kept and untold secrets from elderly inhabitants, and arcane history. For more info, contact office@ citycompass.ro to see when they organize the next tour!
You should also take the time to visit Peles Castle inside. Peles is one of the best preserved castles in Europe and the mix of eclectic styles in the different rooms is a great joy for any visitor.
Another must-see is the park of Sinaia with its beautiful Casino, which holds a permanent paintings exhibition. The park is well maintained and is a great experience for adults and kids alike, as well as for couples looking for a romantic escape. You can also enjoy a good tea or coffee at Cafeneua Parcului, where they have a nice pictures collection of the old houses from Sinaia.
You will also be glad to have visited Casa George Enescu – located in the Cumpatu Quarter – which is on the opposite mountain to the city center – it is a beautiful, quiet and elegant residential area of Sinaia.
Enescu’s former residence, which the great composer designed himself, was recently renovated offers entry tickets and audio guides at a very small price.
You can have a good time at the Model Railway Exhibition located in the Sinaia’s beautiful, but not properly maintained Railway station. Kids will enjoy the small trains, the diorama and the entire family can enjoy a hot chocolate.
Sinaia Park offers playgrounds for different ages and a “Tyrolienne” experience when the weather allows it.
On rainy days, you can take the kids to Carmen Sylva Cultural Center, where they can read and paint.
Check up on the schedule as sometimes they organize guitar lessons on Saturdays.
Going up to the mountain with the Gondola you can make two stops: one at 1400m, and the next to 2000m. On top the view is great from that altitude. Between May and September, you can enjoy a long or short hike and from December to April or even May, you can go skiing. New ski lifts need to be built at the top to manage the high weekend demand, but during the week it is quite nice.
Also up to the mountains, but by car (pretty bad road – almost 1 hour drive) is Stana Regala. It is a hard drive, but once there is great for kids. This summer they even had ponies and other animals. At the top, don’t miss the view from Frantz Iosif Stone – if the sky is clear you should see the entire Prahova Valley, a breathtaking view.
Finally, you can take the family bowling at Hotel International Sinaia. Be aware that when the weather is bad it can be full on Friday and Saturday afternoons so you might need to book it in advance.
Restaurants need to improve both in terms of services and food, but you can have some nice experiences especially with small private businesses.
Address: 1, Avram Iancu St.
Phone: +40 244 31 38 51
Web: www.restaurant-tirol.ro
Good food but pretty expensive; great fondue and kranz cake.
Address: 2, Aleea Pelesului
Phone: +40 244 31 22 43
Web: www.cutituldeargint.ro
This is an interesting experience for those who like meat; here you can have as much meat as you can eat for a fixed price.
Phone: +40 726 76 42 62
Web: www.poiana-stanii.ro
At Stana Regala they cook in large bins at real fire, outside and the food is so tasty … even from the look of it! Call or go online for reservations.
In Sinaia it rains pretty often, so it is always good to have some rain coats and proper shoes with you.
But don’t give up the plan for the entire day if it rains in the morning, you might have a brilliant sunny day after an hour. Take some warm clothes with you at all times, even if Bucharest it is 38 degrees C, it might be very cold in Sinaia.
Thirty minutes north of Sinaia you can visit Cramele Rhein in Azuga, where you can see how they produce Rhein Champagne, which has been produced continuously since 1889.
You can find good fresh vegetables and fruits at Sinaia market which is located on a narrow street located opposite to Hotel Montana. Also, check the Angst supermarket excellent meats. For fish, you can buy fresh trout from Azuga.
If you have any recommendation or if you want to find out more, visit us atwww.redescoperasinaia.ro.
Ioana Enache is President & Board Member of the Asociatia Redescopera Sinaia which aimes to revitalize the town of Sinaia and re-establish it as an elegant, charming and “green” city with a good quality of life and rich cultural offers. Ioana also manages the consultancy company Excellero, which specializes in marketing, communications and change management.
Timisoara
By Anna Lopes
One of the most striking things I learned about Timisoara is that it was the first city in Europe to have electrical street lights in 1884. ...read more
Timisoara
By Anna Lopes
One of the most striking things I learned about Timisoara is that it was the first city in Europe to have electrical street lights in 1884. This is not necessarily the reason why someone should visit the place, although the vibes of the streets in the summer seem to allude to that early invention. It is rather the holiday feeling you get, as you will find that outdoor cafes and restaurants are almost always full, irrespective of the time of day. So, if you are looking for a chillout weekend alone or with your partner, it is a terrific option.
It takes one hour to fly from Bucharest and up to four hours from other major cities in Europe. You can also travel by car, despite what they say about Romanian infrastructure. Trains can sometimes be an option, but make sure you take an Intercity or Rapid. One downside would be that on hot summer days there will be delays that can really test your patience. I once waited for three hours on the platform in Timisoara, but was able to order pizza, which was delivered to the train station!
Where to stay
Timisoara is not necessarily a very popular tourist destination, such as Brasov or Sighisoara.
There is, however, at least one hotel or B&B in every neighborhood and nearby village. Unless you are travelling on business and the company is paying for your expenses, you are better off staying at a B&B. They have their own restaurant and often garden, and many look idyllic in a Mediterranean style.
Casa del Sole
Address: 12, Romulus St.
Phone: +40 356 457 771
Web: www.casadelsole.ro
This is a 4-star B&B, with swimming pool and large outdoor eating and chillout space, where no two rooms are the same, but all of them cozy and romantic; it is the perfect choice for both couples and families with children.
Hotel La Residenza
Address: 14, Independentei St.
Phone: +40 256 401 080
Web: www.laresidenza.ro
Another 4-star hotel, it is perfect for people travelling on business, as it is a very private place with impeccable service. The garden and swimming pool offer an excellent refuge.
What to do
Timisoara is a very compact city; the centre is basically made of two squares – Piata Operei and Piata Unirii – and a network of streets with old buildings that host various boutiques, offices and cafes on the ground floor. Piata Operei is again a two-landmark place: the Orthodox Cathedral, a sort of landmark of the city; and the National Opera and Theatre at the opposite end, a very dynamic and cosmopolitan institution (it also includes the German State Theatre and the Hungarian Theatre).
Piata Unirii is where everybody goes. It is this charming cobbled square, surrounded by old colourful buildings, the Serbian Church, a beautiful Catholic Dome, an Art Museum – Palatul Baroc- and lots of outdoor cafes.
You might encounter stray dogs if you decide to explore the outskirts of the city, but they are almost never found in the centre. I do not know if this sounds comforting enough, but they are very tame mostly ignore humans. Mosquitoes, on the other hand, can be a real menace during the hot season. Make sure you have take insect repellent with you if you have been invited to a BBQ at a friend’s house or if you want to enjoy a drink by the bank of Bega canal.
For an outdoor trip I have some tried and tested suggestions: Bazos / www.bazos.org / A 60 ha wooded area, 20 km east of Timisoara, in the village Bazosul Nou, perfect for walks, a picnic and a nap. Many go there for the game dishes at the exquisite restaurant, Stejarul.
Lake Valiug – Crivaia Resort. You will need a car and a map, but it is well worth the drive. From Timisoara you should follow the E75 road to Resita, and then it’s a short 20 km stretch to Valiug.
Restaurants
Restaurants are to me essential tourist spots that can make your stay memorable, which is why you should choose wisely. Timisoara is a combination of flavours, but some stand out better than others, and that is the Italian cuisine.
Intermezzo
Address: 3, Piata Unirii
Phone: +40 256 432 429
Web: www.restaurant-intermezzo.ro
Indoor and terrace, excellently located in the most popular square Piata Unirii, very decent prices and really tasty Italian dishes.
Casa cu Flori
Address: 1, Alba Iulia St.
Phone: +40 721 180 011
Web: www.casacuflori.ro
Traditional specialities in a warm and elegant location. In the summer you should definitely try the roof terrace!
Pizzeria Celentano
Address: 3, Regimentul 13 Calarasi St.
Phone: +40256435201
Web: www.celentano.ro
This place is not usually mentioned in tourist guides, but it is the only restaurant in Timisoara that is open 24 hrs, which makes it the ideal place for a soothing sour soup (ciorba) after a heavy night out.
Entertainment
Timisoara is a vibrant city, designed for the young at heart; that is why the two most popular forms of entertainment are hanging out in night-clubs and bars, or showing off your tan at swimming-pools (in the summer), of which the best-known are Heaven and Termal.
Suggestion for a memorable pub and club crawl: D’Arc Cafe, followed by River Deck or Fratelli, both on Vasile Parvan Bd., or Heaven Studio, the same location as the swimming pool – Zona Stadion Dan Paltinisan. If you have to make a single wise choice, spend the night at D’Arc Club; the entrance is free, the music – famous hits, and the beer is cheap.
National Romanian Opera
Address: 2, Marasesti St.
Phone: +40 256 201 286
Web: www.ort.ro
Banatul Philharmonic
Address: 2, C.D.Loga Blvd., 2nd floor
Phone: +40 256 492 521
Web: www.filarmonicabanatul.ro
Chisinau, Republic of Moldova
By Ana Mihailov
Ana Mihailov is a citizen of the Republic of Moldova and lives in Chisinau. ...read more
By Ana Mihailov
Ana Mihailov is a citizen of the Republic of Moldova and lives in Chisinau.
Chisinau is the capital of the Republic of Moldova and the largest city in the country. The Republic of Moldova is country that can be described as culturally ‘torn’ between Europe and Russia- a fact reflected by the political circumstances this small country. The communist party ruled the country until 2009, and they are still quite powerful. The official languages spoken there are Romanian and Russian.
Officially, approx. 4.3 million people live in the Republic of Moldova. For history enthusiasts, Chisinau offers a step back in time to the bygone days of the Soviet Union with its grid street system and typical Soviet architecture. If you live in Bucharest want to explore another country with close historical ties to Romania, then a trip to Chisinau is definitely one of the most interesting can make.
Hint! As border procedures are taken seriously when travelling there by car, make sure you take your passport along and check their Visa-policy regarding your nationality! There is a night train leaving every 2nd night from Bucharest to Chisinau; a 1st class ticket is approx. EUR 20 and the trip is amazing.
A visit to the city of Chisinau should definitely start by visiting the statue of Stefan cel Mare, a national hero. It is situated at the entrance of the park of the same name and represents the heart of downtown, as well as the main meeting point for locals.
Exiting the park towards the Stefan cel Mare Boulevard and walking to the left, you arrive at the Opera and Ballet Theater, built during the Soviet era.
From this point one can see the imposing Presidential Palace, which overlooks another important administrative building –the Parliament. Today, both buildings are under repair after having been devastated during the events of April 2009.
Walking along the Stefan cel Mare Boulevard back to the statue of Stefan cel Mare and passing it by, you get to the Grand National Meeting Square (Piata Marii Adunari Nationale), the place where before the ‘90s, military parades and speeches from Communist leaders were organized.
The square accommodates the large House of Government of Moldova (Casa Guvernului), which during the Soviet era served as the seat of the Communist Party of the Moldavian Soviet Socialist Republic.
Just opposite the House of Government is the Triumphal Arch (Arcul de Triumf), built in 1840 by the architect I. Zauschevici in commemoration of the victory of the Tsar troops against the Turks.
Behind the Arch arises the Orthodox cathedral “Christ Birth” (Catedrala „Nasterea Domnului”) built in the classical Russian style in 1836. The cathedral is comprises a central building and a separate bell tower.
The original bell tower was destroyed a few times in various military conflicts; therefore the actual bell tower is the result of the reconstruction finished in 1997.
The cathedral is surrounded by another beautiful park, on one side of which, along the Banulescu-Bodoni Street, the main flower open market of the city is situated. Flower booths are lined one after the other and stretch for more than 200 meters.
Continuing the walk along the House of Government, the first building to mention is the Chisinau City Hall (Primaria Chisinaului), built in 1902 by the architects M. Elladi and A. Bernardazzi in the Gothic Venetian style.
Close to the City Hall, on Stefan cel Mare Boulevard, you can see the Central Post Office (Posta centrala), the Organ Hall (Sala cu orga) and the “Mihai Eminescu” National Theater. Just in the area there is a small and attractive park with an open handicraft market which is the best place to buy souvenirs and presents.
Continuing the walk on the boulevard up to the Armeana Street or a little further on the Tighina Street you can reach the Central Open Food Market of the city.
Walking back to the statue of Stefan cel Mare and then up on the Banulescu Bodoni Street until the 31st of August Street, you get to the National Museum of History of Moldova which holds around 300,000 artifacts of Moldovan history and culture.
Phone: +373 22 382333.
Web: www.milestii-mici.md
This wine factory and cellar complex is situated 20 km south of Chisinau near a village of the same name. Its underground wine city in limestone stretches for 250 km, of which 120 km are currently in use. Milestii Mici cellar complex is recognized to be the largest in the world. The tunnel streets, “Cabernet”, “Chardonnay”, “Feteasca”, and “Sauvignon” etc. form a transportation web in the wine city. The “Golden Collection” of Milestii Mici holds nearly two million bottles. Bookings should be made 3-4 days in advance on the phone.
Phone: +373 22 44 12 04
Web: www.cricova.md
The wine cellar of Cricova is the second largest wine cellar in Moldova, after Milestii Mici and is also about 20 km distance from Chisinau. It boasts a mere 120 kilometers of labyrinthine roadways used for wine storage, named by the wines they store.
The archaeological complex of Orheiul Vechi (Old Orhei) is an open-air museum situated between the villages Trebujeni and Butuceni 60 km northeast of Chisinau. It is a system of historical monuments and natural landscapes. Its fantastic views and ancient atmosphere impress everyone. The easiest way to reach it is by car, as public transport is poorly organized.
Roughly 65 kilometers southeast of Chisinau, in Moldova’s break-away Transnistria Region. The city of Tiraspol is considered to be a living museum of Soviet culture. It can be reached both by public transport and by car.
International Access Code +373 (country code) + 22 (area code) + telephone number (six digit number). To call for an ambulance, dial 903!
Most of the Felicia pharmacies (farmacie) are open 24 hours a day and can be found in every district of the city.
Address: 1, Toma Ciorba St.
Phone: +373 22 25 08 17
Address: 83, Stefan Cel Mare (near the City Hall
Phone: +373 22 32 59 81
Information touch-kiosk network covering Moldova and Romania touristic destinations, best deals, trip advises, free post e-cards, places to see, and special tours.
Visitors to Chisinau have a number of options for getting around the city and the rest of the country including by car, bus, and taxi. A personal vehicle is the most convenient means of transportation available in Chisinau as it allows the greatest freedom and flexibility in travel. Certain rental agencies will hire drivers along with the vehicles.
Address: 57/1, Banulescu Bodoni, off. 211
Phone: +373 22 92 20 60
Web: www.rentacar.md
There is a good public transportation network in Chisinau that consists of buses, trolley buses, and minibuses whose standard operating hours are from 6am to midnight (see www.terra.md/ro/timetable for the schedule). Taxis are a good way of getting around the immediate city; the best way to get a taxi is to call for a pick-up. Taxis can be reached by dialing any of the following numbers: 1400, 1405, 1406, 1407 or 1408. Most hotels, restaurants, and bars will be happy to make this call for you.
Address: 67, Bucuresti St.
Phone: +373 22 22 76 92
Web: www.lataifas.allmoldova.com
La Taifas restaurant provides an insight about Moldovan cuisine and national customs.
Address: 115, 31 August St.
Phone: +373 22 24 01 27
This elegant French restaurant is situated in the very center of the town in the National Museum of Arts building, and is famous for its unique atmosphere. The aroma of real freshly ground coffee beans harmonizing with restored ancient photos create an unusually cozy and comfortable atmosphere.
Address: 78 , 31 August St.
Phone: +373 22 21 13 17
Web: www.symposium.md
Symposium is one of Chisinau’s top restaurants, striving to bring its customers fresh and creative cuisine, along with fine service in a warm, classic atmosphere. It is located in historic downtown, across the National Museum and behind the Government Building. Symposium is consistently recognized by local newspapers and tourist guides as one of the city’s best restaurants.
Address: 17/1, Grigore Vieru Blvd.
Phone: +373 22 24 32 32
Web: www.cafedeitalia.md
This is the place to find a big variety of specialty coffees, drinks and good music.
Address: 117/2, 31 and August St.
Phone: +373 22 24 14 28
This is a small, cozy two-floor café downtown. It is the best place in Chisinau to treat yourself to traditional French pastry and confectionery.
Address: 44, Albisoara St.
This is a café where people come primarily for the sake of good music and relaxed communication. In the evening you can see local and foreign jazz or blues bands on stage.
Going out in Chisinau is a great time and we highly recommend it!
Address: 83, Alexandru cel Bun St.
Phone: +373 22 24 11 47
Combining pub traditions with a rich restaurant menu, this place is of the British tradition where British dishes are given special attention.
Address: 30, Puskin St.
Phone: +373 22 22 83 50
The pub offers European food in a very cozy atmosphere where travelers can drink a glass of good beer and listen to Latin music.
Address: 66, Bucuresti St.
Phone: +373 69 04 04 04
The club is situated downtown and has a very convenient location. It is worth noting that it is a true disco club, comprising all the energy and glamour of the multi-faceted phenomenon called disco.
Address: 26, Lapusneanu St.
Phone: +373 22 24 21 29
Web: www.vispas.com
For over 8 years it has provided a quiet and comfortable environment, truly expanding the limits of hospitality. Due to the convenient location in the center of the city, major business offices and attractions can be reached within minutes. Prices from EUR 100-120.
Address: 77, Mitropolit Varlaam St.
Phone: +373 22 21 02 10
Web: www.leograndhotels.com
This four-star hotel, located in the center of the city is close to just about everything. The rooms are big enough and prices vary from EUR 180-230.
Address: 140/1, Columna St.
Phone: +373 22 29 25 74
Web: www.elathotel.md
Elat Hotel is situated in the business center of Chisinau, near the Presidential and Parliament buildings, Central Park and Theatre of Opera and Ballet. Prices from EUR 70-90.
Apartments are a good alternative to hotels in Chisinau. Nice apartments centrally located can be found for relatively cheap prices. Seewww.rental.md/apartments/ to select and book.
Address: 85, Stefan Cel Mare St.
By the National Theatre on Stefan Cel Mare there is a handicraft market located in a small and attractive park. It is open daily, from 10:00 until around 17:00.
For constant updates and more in-depth info about Chisinau, visit our website at www.citycompass.ro or check out this link: www.allmoldova.com!
Bulgaria Outdoors
By Christian Pauls
Rusenski Lom Nature Park (Bulgaria, Ruse County)
Sometimes people ask me if there are any nature trips you can do from Bucharest without getting ...read more
By Christian Pauls
Sometimes people ask me if there are any nature trips you can do from Bucharest without getting into the standard traffic jam in Prahova Valley, driving many hours, or heading to Buzau Area (which I highly recommend). Well, about 90km from Bucharest, in Bulgaria, there is a stunning nature park, with plenty of hills, canyons, rivers, caves and old churches carved into the rocks above a winding river.
The Rusenski Lom national park is one of Bulgaria’s 11 national parks and is situated along the canyonlike valley of the Rusenski Lom River. It is a great area for easy walks, longer hikes, mountain biking, and the region is very suitable for families with children too.
The park is recognized as a precious site of high aesthetic value preserving beautiful riverside terraces, meanders, and high vertical rocks, areas of rich varieties of animal life, caves, rock formations, and historical monuments of national and international significance.
From Bucharest take DN5/ E85 direction Giurgiu. Pass by Adunati Copaceni and after the village of Remus follow it to your left (truck road signposted to Ruse). Take care, if you do make the turn, you will have to drive through the city of Giurgiu.
Once you arrive at the Romanian – Bulgarian boarder you will see a first checkpoint where you will have to pay a tax for crossing the Bridge of Friendship (RON 30 / car). The border checkpoint is right after the bridge. After passing border control you will have to pay for the Bulgarian road tax if you intend to drive on national roads and highways. It happened to me and to several more expats from Bucharest that they were asked higher amounts for the road tax than it actually costs. Make sure you will get a receipt and keep it with you at all times. It is also a very good idea to have a good map that you understand at this point, because every road sign will be in Cyrillic lettering.
Then you will travel by the city of Ruse. Follow the road to Sofia/ Veliko Tarnovo (national road no. 5) for about 20km and turn then to the left to Ivanovo. From there you will already see road signage leading to the “rock churches” of Ivanovo.
Outdoor activities in the region include: walking and hiking, mountain biking, canoeing, caves, and climbing. Also, when you are there, you must visit Ivanovo’s impressive rock churches. These UNESCO heritage sites date back to the second Bulgarian state, 12th-14th century, and have been carved into the rocks above Rusenski Lom River.
Another place of interest is the medieval village of Cherven, where you can enjoy stunning views from the castle (although the castle itself isn’t much more than a ruin now).
The region does not offer many guesthouses as tourism is not very busy there. The website Hotels Guide Bulgaria offers a complete list of accommodation offers in the region at www.hotels.guide-bulgaria.com/NC/Rousse.
Personally, I have tried out the Petrov Gueshouses in Cherven. There were two clean and neat houses with 3 double rooms each. Not suitable for families as you share the bathroom with the other guests. The food is decent, but you’d better take your own with you.
A wonderful weekend city break just 3 hours from Bucharest is Veliko Tarnovo. As a former capital of Bulgaria during the Second Empire you will find a city with plenty of history and unique architecture to discover. Its heritage ranges from medieval fortresses and Ottoman inns to the Bulgarian renaissance.
Even today, walking through the streets of the old town you will find plenty of cutlery, tannery, pottery, a carpenter’s shops and a weaving workshop, where the artisans use authentic technologies.
This free online guide about Veliko Tarnovo that should be helpful to prepare your visit: www.theoldcapital.eu.
If you plan to travel by car it will be an easy 3 hour drive from Bucharest to Veliko Tarnovo. From Bucharest take DN5/ E85 direction Giurgiu, then cross the Danube-Bridge to Ruse. From Ruse follow national road no. 5 towards Sofia and follow the road-signs towards Veliko Tarnovo (Велико Търново). I do not recommend traveling by train to Veliko Tarnovo unless you are passionate about it. It may take you more than 7 hours to get there (192 km).
Veliko Tarnovo is a great weekend escape for all kinds of travelers. The city itself is rich in galleries, artisans and museums. Close by there are several places of interest that can be easily reached by car, including: the old village of Arbanassi; Eco-trail hikes in Emen Canyon; and several monasteries.
Veliko Tarnovo offers plenty of hotels and six hostels at reasonable prices. If you prefer high-end luxury, there are Hotel and Spa resorts in the neighbouring village of Arbanassi.
My personal recommendation in Veliko Tarnovo is the Phoenix Hostel, run by a Cathy and Nick, two British expatriates and passionate motorcyclists who settled in Veliko four years ago. From my personal point of view they run the best hostel I have ever stayed in. Just in the middle of the old town, in a wonderful old Bulgarian house that they have renovated with a lot of care and passion Nick and Cathy cater to their guests with great attention, a wonderful breakfast and spotlessly clean rooms and facilities. They are the best source of information for activities in and around Veliko Tarnovo. Book in advance!
Address: Hristo Daskalov Str. 12
Phone: +359 (0)62 603 112
E-mail: phoenixhostel@gmail.com
ince its status as European Cultural Capital in 2007 Sibiu has become especially well known far beyond Romanian borders. ...read more
