Cluj – Napoca, where life goes at slow pace
By Andrei Roth
Everything happens at a slower pace in Cluj – Napoca – that is what most travelers notice after being exposed to Bucharest. Although it is one of Romania’s most dynamic and cosmopolitan cities, the people of Cluj have inherited some of the patient and pedantic ways of the Austrian empire, under whose influence they have been for centuries. This history is, however, noticeable not only in the local ways or the architecture of its boulevards, but also in its people, as the city is a multicultural blend of Romanians, Hungarians and Germans that have been living together for centuries.
Must-sees in the city
When in Cluj, the first stopover must be the medieval centre of the city, the Union Square. Here you can visit the gorgeous St. Michael’s Church and the famous Matthias Corvinus statue, the Banffy Palace – now home to the Art Museum – or the beginning of the “Iuliu Maniu” street, a “mirror” street unique in Romania. Heading towards the Museum Square on the little cobblestone streets, you almost always pass by dozens of street merchants, traditional craftsmen or local farmers who will entice you with their mastery. Next, you reach the “Casa Matei”, a 13th century inn where Matei Corvin (Matthias Corvinus), the great Emperor of Hungary, was born. Keep walking along the cobblestone streets until you reach the Museum Square, home to the Franciscan Monastery and Church, and the Carolina monument, a monument honoring the 18th Century imperial visit of Francisc I and his wife, Carolina Augusta – it is called the Carolina monument because the Princess fell in love with the city.
Once you have had enough of the little medieval streets and the bohemian terraces covering this part of the city, continue towards the river, cross the bridge and hike up the stairs to the “Cetatuia” hill, where you can indulge in an ice cream, coffee or cocktail at the “Pergola” panoramic terrace, enjoying the most stunning view of the city. The best way to then wrap up this perfect afternoon is to head to the Botanical Garden for a few hours of walking through this green paradise in the center of the city.
Entertainment
The city of Cluj offers a wide selection of entertainment options. You can visit one of the many museums in town – a particularly interesting one is the Pharmacy Museum right across the street from St. Michael’s Church, located in the building that was home to the first pharmacy in town during the medieval ages. In the summertime, it is always worth visiting the outdoor Village Museum on the “Taietura Turcului” road, on top of the “Cetatuia” hill. In the evening, head to watch an opera show at either the Romanian or Hungarian National Opera Houses or a play at the two National Theatres or many alternative cultural venues in town. And head for a nightcap at “Casa Tauffer” – a piano bar that either has live Jazz music or shows old Pink Floyd concerts – or, if you want to have a more active night, head to “Myway” club for live band and a guaranteed great time. The possibilities are endless, so you can try one of the scores of clubs, bars and cafes filling literally every house within a 3 block radius of the Union Square – just follow the music. And do not be confused if there is one type of music coming from the cellar and another from the floor, many old buildings house several bars.
If you are lucky enough to be in Cluj in late spring, you can enjoy the Transilvania International Film Festival, Romania’s largest and one of Central Europe’s most prestigious film festivals. For 10 days, the city lives and breathes film. Head to the Union Square for an outdoor movie screening alongside hundreds of other movie lovers, having a glass of beer or wine and tucking into the complimentary blankets offered by the organizers. Or, if you want a truly unique experience, follow the schedule, as you never know when the organizers will have a screening in an old restored castle 30 km outside of town or inside the impressive Turda Salt Mines.
Nature & Surroundings
One of the best things about Cluj is the proximity to many wonderful destinations. Within a half hour’s drive you can admire the incredible Turda Salt Mines from the indoor ferris wheel, hike through the gorgeous natural reservation at the Turda Gorges, or canoe on the Tarnita Lake. If all you want is a picnic, you can just drive up the “Cetatuia” hill passing the Village Museum and enjoy the “Hoia-Baciu” forest that cuts deep into the heart of the city. Or, drive up on the Felac hill and head to Faget, a very large forest surrounding the city from the South where locals usually head for the weekends.
If you are in town for a weekend, you can always take a 2-day trip to Padis, one of Romania’s most beautiful regions, with mountains that hide inside them hundreds of caves, underground rivers and canyons. If you decide to camp here, you will be sure to meet fellow travelers from all over the world enjoying a camp fire, a guitar and lots of laughter, or just admiring the countless stars that reveal themselves in these clearest of skies. One caveat: make sure you are prepared for a proper camping experience, as there are very few amenities in the area.
Getting there
Cluj is easily accessible by all means of transportation. You can hop on one of the 4-5 daily Tarom flights from Bucharest and be there in less than 1 hour, plus the 15 minute cab ride to downtown. If you would rather drive or take the train, prepare for a long drive (6-7 hours) via either Brasov or Sibiu, or a 9+ hour train ride. Of course, if you coming from Munich, London, Frankfurt, Budapest or most Italian cities, you can fly directly via several other airlines serving the local airport.
Hotels
City Plaza
Address: 9-13 Sindicatelor St.
Phone: +40 264 450 101
Web: www.cityhotels.ro
An excellent 5-star hotel located in the heart of the city, offers a wide selection of dining (Romanian, International and Asian fusion cuisine) as well as a rooftop indoor wellness center
Opera Plaza
Address: 10-12 G-ral Traian Moşoiu St.
Phone: +40 364 403 600
Web: www.operaplaza.ro
The first 5-star hotel in town, Opera Plaza has become a traditional hotel for business travelers, because of its central location and quality services
Golden Tulip Ana Dome Hotel
Address: 129 Observatorului St.
Phone: +40 264 540 000
Web: www.goldentulipanadome.com
This brand new stylish 4-star hotel is probably the best deal in Cluj, with excellent service and amenities.
Restaurants
“Roata” Restaurant
Address: 6A Alexandru Ciurea St.
Phone: +40 264 592 022
Web: www.restaurant-roata.ro
Located at the heart of the city, this restaurant offers traditional Romanian cuisine, excellent service and a very quiet and cool terrace for the summer months.
Tamas Bistro
Address: 153 Savadisla St.
Phone: +40 264 374 455
Web: www.tamasbistro.ro
This family-run traditional Hungarian restaurant, located in the village of Savadisla (20 km outside the city), has become famous for its excellent service, home-made food, ingredients and signature recipes.
Baracca
Address: 8A Napoca St.
Phone: +40 732 155 177
Web: www.baracca.ro
Excellent service, fine Mediterranean dining, a great assortment of wines and a modern, and stylish design make for a great experience.
Indigo Indian Restaurant
Address: 10 Piezişă St.
Phone: +40 364 142 306
Web: www.indigorestaurant.ro
Located in the Hasdeu student complex, this restaurant offers a surprisingly genuine Indian experience.
Tokyo Restaurant
Address: 5 Gh. Marinescu St.
Phone: +40 264 598 662
Web: www.tokyorestaurant.ro
The first Japanese restaurant in town, with an excellent selection of sushi, sashimi and tempuras.
El Toro Steakhouse
Address: 9 Piata Cipariu
Phone: +40 731 867 777
Web: www.eltoro.ro
The place to go for a real Argentinean steak.
Pescador
Address: 32 Calea Dorobantilor
Phone: +40 364 402 338
Web: www.pescador.ro
This upscale restaurant offers an excellent variety of fresh fish along with quality wines and desserts.
Fabrica de Bere Ursus (Ursus Beer Factory)
Address: Calea Manastur 2-6
Web: www.ursus.ro
Located inside the original “Ursus” brewery in Cluj, this restaurant now makes a special “Ursus” beer that can only be served here, alongside a great bar and delicious food.
Useful info
When meeting someone in Cluj for a beer, I recommend asking to meet at the “horse’s tail” – this is the most common meeting place for the locals, right behind the equestrian statue of Matthias Corvinus at Union Square.
If you think of doing a lot of business in Cluj, it is recommended to open an account with “Banca Transilvania”, the local bank and also the largest Romanian-owned bank in the country. Their network in town is the most extensive in the region, and it is very easy to get to the decision makers in time, without having to go to Bucharest for relevant approvals.
