The citadel of Sibiu, former European Culture Capital
By Holger Wermke (text) and Mateo Urquijo (recommendations)
Since its status as the European Cultural Capital in 2007, Sibiu has become especially well known far beyond Romanian borders. Previously, it had enjoyed renown as the Jewel of Southern Transylvania, though perhaps not quite as polished as the present moment. Five years later, the city still offers a broad cultural programme throughout the year.
Like numerous other cities in the region, its origins can be found in a settlement founded by German colonists in the 12th century. They say that a certain Hermann was the leader of these settlers, so the village – initially mentioned in 1223 – was baptised and carries it unofficially even today: Hermannstadt.
Getting there
National Road DN 7 passes through Sibiu, which is actually one of the most important transit routes to Bucharest from the Hungarian border. Coming from Bucharest you head for Pitesti and follow the road signs to Sibiu, five hours by car in total. Buses leave Bucharest from Autogara Militari (B-ul Iuliu Maniu no. 141, next to Metro Station Pacii), a recommendable and low priced alternative to the train. If you prefer to travel fast and comfortably a plane might be your means of transport since Sibiu has one daily flight to Bucharest with Tarom, but only from Monday to Friday. Book in advance for excellent deals.
What to do there
The oldest and most interesting part of the town lies at the end of a ridge that protrudes in the valley of the River Cibin. In the middle of the old town you will find an incredible square, called the Great Square (Piata Mare). This square is framed with a couple of interesting houses. The most impressive ones are situated on the northern side. On your right-hand you see the comparably new Catholic Church that was built ostensibly between 1726 and 1733 by the Austrian Habsburg sovereigns (having conquered Transylvania in 1699), who demonstrated to their respective protestant and orthodox subjects the new constellation of power. The next building on the left houses is the Tourist Information Center on the ground floor. The ladies who work there are very kind and helpful. Besides this renovated edifice is the new town hall, and right above the tourist office is the office of the mayor, whose seat is taken by one of the few remaining Saxons in Transylvania, Klaus Johannis.
A nice side note: although Germans represent only 2 percent of the population in the city, namely some 2,000, they command the political power on both local and county levels.
After 10 years of stagnation, the Romanians decided to vote for the Saxon, Klaus Johannis, who won the mayoral elections in 2000, and since then, has held office.
Two hundred years earlier, there was also a Saxon who rendered outstanding services for the region.
Samuel von Brukenthal was the only Transylvanian governor during the Austro-Hungarian regency. He bequeathed a fabulous collection of paintings as well as real estate to the Saxon Nation. The impressive baroque building at the square’s exit is the Brukenthal castle. Today it serves as the main complex of the museum with the same name, with its world-renowned collection of Flemish masterpieces, but has a lot more to offer – in any case, worth a tour.
At this point we could go on and on, as every house could tell a story, but you will discover and learn more if you come to visit. When you leave the square between Brukenthal castle and the Town Hall you will reach the innermost point of the former three defensive rings (the Great Square was the third one). Huet Square (Piata Huet) is dominated by the Evangelic Church, dating from the 14th century. The Gothic church was finished around 1520. The building is currently under reconstruction. After many years of fundraising, the parish got obtained EU funds which enabled restoration. Despite reconstruction, you should not miss the view from the tower. If you catch a clear day you will enjoy a delightful view over Sibiu, decorated with the panorama of the Carpathians.
Opposite the church entrance stands Brukenthal High School, a renowned school where pupils are still educated in German, thus attracting a lot of Romanian children with wealthy parents (Speaking German is a highly-prized asset in Romania!). Walk around the church and enjoy the view across the roofs of the lower town. If you have not noticed yet, keep an eye on the dormer windows, or let them keep an eye on you – these eye-shaped dormers are unique and almost exclusively found in Sibiu.
On the eastern corner of the square you see a little bridge above the road to the lower town; this is the so-called Liar’s Bridge. If you come at the weekend you will most likely see a newly-wed couple posing for their wedding album. Directly to the right is the Small Square (Piata Mica), then the second fortification, now the pub mile, where on summer evenings you will jostle for tables at the overcrowded bars and pizzerias.
Festivals all over the year
We mentioned Sibiu’s cultural programme at the beginning of our article. An extraordinary highlight is the annual Sibiu International Theatre Festival which is held every spring, starting at the end of May. The festival comes with a multitude of events. It stages major international productions, the finest productions in Romanian theatre, as well as street and music performances from around the world, all taking place daily in Sibiu’s historical centre, in its squares and buildings, and inside churches and medieval fortresses of Sibiu’s scenic surroundings. The festival also features dance–theatre performances, puppet theatre and light displays. The hard choice is only where to go.
There are a couple of other festivals such as the Jazz Festival in May, the Rockfestival Artmania and the Medieval Festival both held in August. A couple of years ago, Sibiu began organising a Christmas market in December, which is modelled on original ones inWestern Europe, and grows from year to year. If you arestaying in Sibiu at this time of the yearthen we recommend drinking a hot mug of mulled wine at the snow-covered Great Square.
Where to stay
Hotel Roberts
Address: 16-18,Charles Darwin St.
Phone: +40 269 212 222
Web: www.hotelroberts.ro
Sibiu has an incredible number of hotels, but this one truly stands out. It is a family run business, and the service is unmatched in the city. On top of that, it is far cheaper than the name-brand hotels. The owners are extremely helpful and can help you make any arrangements you may need, and they speak perfect English.
Hilton Hotel
Address: 1, Padurea Dumbrava St.
Phone: +40 269 252 986
Web: www.hilton.co.uk/sibiu
This is the second Hilton hotel opened in Romania.
Pensiunea Daniel
Address: 1, Masarilor St.
Phone: +40 0269 243 924
Web: www.pensiuneadanielsibiu.in-romania.ro/
This quaint little B&B is centrally located and offers good value for money.
Hotel Continental Forum
Address: 10, Piata Unirii
Phone: +40 372 692 692
Web: www.continentalhotels.ro/Continental-Forum-Sibiu/
This is one of the largest and most expensive hotels in the city. Right downtown, you can treat yourself to quite the luxurious weekend there. Book in advance; rates can be extremely high.
Restaurants
La Turn
Address: 1, Piata Mare
Phone: +40 727 52 88 76
Web: www.laturn.com
Everyone in the city knows this restaurant. It sits almost directly under the Council Tower between the Great and Small Squares. They have Italian/Romanian food and wine at very reasonable prices, in a great atmosphere.
Crama Sibiana
Address: 1-3 Avram Iancu St.
Phone: +40 0369 40 53 71
Web: www.cramasibiana.ro
Set in a medieval cellar, this restaurant features traditional Transylvanian specialties in a very warm and welcoming atmosphere. The prices are very good, just like the food.
Crama Sibiu Vechi
Address: 3 Papiu Ilarian St.
Phone: +40 269 212814
Web: www.sibiulvechi.ro
This is probably the best-known restaurant for Romanian food in Sibiu. In the evenings you might need a reservation to get your table, but then you get your meal from waiters in traditional costumes and can even enjoy traditional music.
Restaurant Hermania
Address: 2, Filarmonicii St.
Phone: +40 755 05 59 99
Web: www.hermania.sobis.ro
This is one of the best-known restaurants in the city and it is housed in the old Philharmonic complex, hence the name. It serves mainly traditional Romanian and German food as befits the region!
Restaurant Felinarului
Address: 8 Felinarului St.
Phone: + 40 749 901 171
Web: www.felinarulhostelsibiu.ro
This tiny place is hiding away in a narrow street in the old town. The Romanian-Irish-owners serve modern, international food in a lovely, warm ambiance.
Cafes and Pubs
Sibiu has a wealth of cafes and pubs. Just walk through any one of the three squares and take your pick.
Don’t like what you see? Just walk 30 meters forward and there will be many more to choose from. Especially in Piata Mica (the Small Square) you will find a great selection. Still, our favorite is Cafe Wien.
Cafe Wien
Address: 4, Piata Huet
Phone: +40 269 22 32 23
Web: www.cafewien.ro
This Austrian cafe overlooks the old part of the city. Bring a book, and enjoy pastries, excellent coffees and teas, and the great atmosphere. Even when full, you feel like you are in your own world. And don’t worry about loud music; they play Viennese radio all day long.
